Yuji Hirayama

Japan

I became a top climber in Japan as a teenager. Achieved many onsights and redpoints of high grade routes in both crags and competitions. I was the first Japanse title holder as World Cup champ in 1998. Won the World Cup title again in 2000. I did a two-day ascent of the Salathé in Yosemite while attempting the onsight in September 1997. I also succeeded in onsighting White Zombie (8c) in 2004. I'm an all-round climber who does everything from 5.13 cracks to V15 boulder problems.

Birthday? February 23,1969.

Year you first started climbing? 1984.

Three climbing achievements you are most proud of?

1. The Idea of big wall free onsight and I tried and was close to do it.

2. World Cup champ twice.

3. The first 8c onsight in the world (White Zombie).

Memory/story of the first time you ever went climbing? I went to climb Hiwadayama one hour from Tokyo. This rock is not big at all.10m height about 20m wide and location is OK …you know. But at that day I climbed a lot from 3rd class to 5.10s. And most impressive thing that I found was very different every climbing in this small rock. Every routes every faces of rock were very different. And same time I thought about how many rocks in the world…and I realized that unlimited number of the rocks exist all around the world. So.. for this reason that I would be never tired from climbing.

Also I couldn’t do one of the 5.10b… It’s kind of same reason but I saw the unlimited challenge in free climbing all around the world.  And you know I understand same way today.

Favorite climbing area and why? Limestone bolted overhanging route. Usually overhang wall has a lot of holds and you can climb more dynamic and rhythmical. In this kind of climbing …I feel free…and I feel like I am doing like dance on the wall.

Best climbing/skiing experience? Salathé  onsight attempt is one of the best experience.

Worst climbing experience? Always good to challenge.

What's your dream trip? Where? With who? I am always dreaming next destination. These days I like to go Canada with good friends.

What/who inspires you in climbing? Most of the time from the climbers … about climbing attitude, lifestyle…

How are you training when you are not climbing? Do some yoga…that’s most of it.

Do you have any tattoos or piercings? No