RJUKANFOSSEN

For thousands of years before the arrival of hydropower plants, the river Månå flowed freely down through Krokan to the lip of the Rjukanfossen, dropping 238 meters into a cauldron of rock with vertical walls and a narrow outlet. Today, most of the water is diverted into tunnels that lead to the turbines of the hydropower plant, allowing access to the heart of what was once a boiling cataract of water. Reduced to a trickle, the Rjukanfossen itself freezes into a modest WI 3 slab, dwarfed by the imposing Lipton (WI 7), which drops in a series of free-hanging pillars from the opposite wall. Here, steep ice the color of tea leads to a tricky traversing crux under a low roof that impedes a full swing. A classic testpiece, it’s one of several destination climbs that put Rjukan on the map.