BD athlete Alex Chabot reports on an impressive onsight of Les Intouchables on Mont Blanc's Trident du Tacul
Black Diamond arthlete Alex Chabot managed an impressive onsight of Les Intouchables, one of the most demanding rock climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. Below is email report Alex sent us along with some great photos.
Les Intouchables is a route in Trident du Tacul that is just next to Grand Capucin. Piola made the first ascent in 1992.
The climb is fantastic, leading up on the granite of Mont Blanc through lines of small cracks, with spectacular views of the mountain range. (Personally I think this is one of the most beautiful routes in Mont Blanc).
We have an opening in the weather and I call Yves to ask if he wants to join me on the project. Next day we leave, carrying heavy loads: 2x50m, 10 quickdraws, a big set of Camalots, and bivouac gear that we place below Grand Capucin.
We head up the first pitches, trying to save as much energy as possible for the last 7c+ pitch (graded 7b+ after the removal of the bolts!). The climb is steep and smooth following a logical line of great cracks and pass through a few overhanging roofs that ensure we are warmed-up for the upcoming difficulties.
We were eager to get to the most interesting pitch. After a last steep pitch of 7b, we reach two parallel cracks. The difficulty is obvious: we want to do this steep pitch onsight but know that at 3600-meters elevation the lactic acid reaches the arms fast. It’s a pitch with fist-sized cracks where we quickly need to decide what protection to put. 25 meters of alpine paradise and the satisfaction in succeeding on the pitch onsight!
Thank you Yves for joining me on this adventure.