Marko Prezelj

Slovenia

I started to climb in a very strong climbing “tribe” and I went through old school alpinism. Those were the days when one could get the real status in the tribe only with action, not with skilled talking. I learned that the pursuit is complex and immeasurable. Curiosity was the impulse that first brought me to alpinism, and it leads me still.

In climbing, style is my first concern. The decision-making process is the challenge. Doubt and uncertanity are the essence; trying to balance them with my choices is the passion. No regrets is the rule. Alpinism tests the limits of my strength, intuition, personality, character, emotion and creative spirit.

When I know the outcome, the game is different and in the end less fun. Every feeling is unique. Every partnership is unique. Every climb is unique. Judging any ascent is senseless. The essence of a climb burns out in the moment of experience. The core of an alpinist’s pursuit will always lie in ashes.

I'm a father, husband, alpinist, UIAGM mountain guide, photographer… and other responsibilities that I accept when life gives me an opportunity.

Birthday? Yes, October 1965.

Year you first started climbing? 1972.

Three climbing achievements you are most proud of? Three points of narcissism. How can I dissect my life? And why?

Memory/story of the first time you ever went climbing? First time was great and I was infected for the rest of my life. Like in some other life experiences…

Favorite climbing area and why? I like every interesting place where I don’t get bored and can feed my curiosity.

Best climbing experience? When I’m not bored and I’m with motivated people, I have memorable experience.

Worst climbing experience? Can experiences be bad?

What's your dream trip? Where? With who? I like to go anywhere where I can feel free and take my own decisions. I like to climb with people who share the enthusiasm for active life.

Guilty pleasure? I don’t feel guilty when I enjoy life.

BD gear you use every time you go climbing? Every time I go climbing, I appreciate the people who support me to do what I like. Confidence is my favorite BD gear.

Something that annoys you while climbing? If something annoys me, I’m not focused. While climbing, I’m doing my best to stay focused.

What/who inspires you in climbing? Interesting ideas and people with energy to make them happen, fill me with enthusiasm.

Favorite aprés-climb meal? I like to eat/drink anything that helps me to keep the enthusiasm for life.

Favorite climbing flick? I like Akira Kurosawa’s Rashomon. There is not much climbing in it but it says a lot about climbing stories.

What's in your iPod? I wonder as well. Some day I might take a screwdriver and check the inside of an iPod. I’m really curious where and how is all the music stored.

Strangest place you've ever woken up? How is defined a strange(st) place?

Strangest person you've ever woken up with? I don’t sleep with strangers.

Three things you'd never roadtrip without? Three again? My head, my curiosity and fun … but I live with many other things …

Superstitions? I don’t think so.

What's your dream job? I don’t dream about a job – I’m trying to enjoy life as it is.

How are you training when you are not climbing? I try to stay focused on what I’m doing.

If you could steal one thing and not get caught, what would it be? Why would I do that? Cheating doesn’t make me happy.

If you could have dinner with three people (dead or alive) who would they be? My wife and two sons makes a good quad for a dinner. There are (too) many charismatic persons which would be interesting to meet. But I don’t think that I would enjoy a dinner with a dead person. Would you?

Which would you prefer: power of flight or invisibility? Freedom.

Do you have any tattoos or piercings? Not yet. They say that some day we will be equipped with an implanted chip.