BD athlete Alex Raczynski reports on his climbing trip to Siurana and Marglef, Spain
BD athlete Alex Raczynski is a legit young gun. Seventeen years old, Alex is trained by fellow BD athlete Adam Pustelnik and has redpointed up to 9a. He’s definitely part of the next generation of sport climbers that are poised to changed the books on what is possible. Below is his report he sent us regarding his trip to Siurana and Marglef in northern Spain.
On December 21 I started my trip to Siurana and Margalef area in Catalunya. My first Christmas days without family... I was sad, but at the same time this was my only chance to climb in Spain. School is very intensive for me and after the 6 days I missed it‘s making me very busy and tired now ☺.
I traveled alone to Barcelona and then I met my climbing partner, Enzo Oddo. He is 16 years old and from France. We found climbing together very good and for sure I couldn't complain about social atmosphere during the trip. The other great thing was the Spanish weather. It is complitely crazy. 3 minutes of rain in 3 weeks... no complaint.
Only thing that was worth to complain about was my climbing shape. After long sessions on boring plastic in my town, I forgot how to move on the real rock. By the way, when I was in Siurana I read great report from Alex Honnold about climbing gyms in Poland. He was on our climbing wall and it was very nice to read that someone’s seing the cool side of our dirty climbing walls. Coming back to Siurana I needed a couple of days to remember the rythm and balance. Unfortunately, when I thought that I was ready to try climb harder, I got a finger injury on a good, crimpy 8c route Pati Noso.
I had to stop pushing hard, but I didn’t mean, that my trip was worse. I tried to develop my other skills ☺. I learned a lot of French, practised my photography and of course I tried to discover fthe antastic culture of Catalunya. I must admit, that it is absolutely different than Polish one. From my point of view Spanish people live much slower. No rush. No stress. Just mañana.
I was able to climb on routes which didn’t forced me to use very much my broken ring finger, so I choose the best classics of sector El Pati like amazing Kallea Borroka or Migranya Profounda, both 8b+. Both are beautiful and uniqe. Actually, almost all routes in Siurana were admirable. Maybe not my style, because many long reaches, but I had great fun doing them.
For last four days we moved to Margalef, which is about 1 hour from Siurana by car. Everything changed. This was the next thing, which made on me big impression. During the drive, firstly I was watching limestone cliffs, than sandstone and finally conglomerate rock, which make up the Margalef sectors. Many intermediates holds = good for short people, like me. My finger was much better and I didn’t have to crimp here, so I found cool project for finish of the trip. I choose L’espiadimonis (8c) in sector Crova Box. This is very nice endurance route with crux in the middle. I really liked it and after one unseccssfull day of tries, I decided to try one more day. I rested for one day and did route first try on the next day. So great feeling! Good finish of the trip. ☺
Greetings from cold and rainy Poland!