Year you first started climbing? 1986
Three climbing achievements you are most proud of?
First lead after miles of toproping!
First ascent of Anthamatten on north face of Matterhorn
First ascent of the north face of Tengkangpoche in Nepal
Memory/story of the first time you ever went climbing? At first I was not interested in climbing. I was just interested in abseiling. First from stones, then from trees, then from our roof, then from the roof of the school. I was fascinated to hang on a rope and work with carabiners. But to abseil you have to climb up, so I had to start climbing.
Favorite climbing area and why? My favorite is Zermatt and the Swiss Alps because I grew up there, there are my roots and my friends. But my visions are in the Himalaya because the mountains are bigger, higher and harder.
Best climbing experience? There is no “best climbing experience.” Every trip, mountain, climb and partner is different. All experiences are different. That is what is best in climbing. The universalism is what alpinism makes magic. If you play tennis in Paris, New York or Melbourne the tennis court will stay more or less the same. In alpinism you have millions of different aspects: from ice to boulders, from granite to sandstone, from deepwater soloing to 8848 meters…
Worst climbing experience? Losing some good friends in the mountains.
What's your dream trip? Where? With who? Doing the first ascent of K2 with Walter Bonatti!
Guilty pleasure? No. I grew up in a Zermatt. This town has been without cars since 1970. I drive my car once a week when I have to go out of the valley. I do one to two trips a year where I have to fly with an aircraft. Yes also I produce CO2 to get my business running but I try to reduce as much as possible. I don’t go shopping with my car. I try to fill up my car when I go climbing with friends. I use a backpack for groceries. I don’t drive a big American car. I will stop driving cars, stop using aircrafts and stop guiding heliskiing when all G8 countries have the same CO2 emission per person like our town.
BD gear you use every time you go climbing/skiing? - Cobra ice axes. After 150 years of alpinism the human being started climbing with these weapons! - Camalots and Oz carabiners, for alpine climbs - Spot headlamp. I have always one in my backpack - Verdict skis and all the other ski gear, for my work as a guide in winter
Something that annoys you while climbing? To lose the way on the approach.
What/who inspires you in climbing? Young rope guns and experienced old alpinists.
Favorite après-climb meal? Asado in Patagonia, Paella in Siurana, Yak Steak in Nepal.
What's in your iPod? I lost my iPod.
How are you training when you are not climbing? Bouldering and ski touring
If you could steal one thing and not get caught, what would it be? All the climbing permits for Nepal and Pakistan.