Athlete Profile


Sylvain Millet

France France

I discovered climbing at 9 years old, a little bit after I joined a club (ASPTT GAP). Around 13 years old I discovered Céüse, since then I've climbed more and more… In Céüse, I attempted routes harder and harder, naturally one day I began to try Biographie. I linked it in 2004,  after about a hundred attempts spread out over seven years. I did a lot of competitions, about one hundred in international with some podiums.

Now, I work half time as engineer. Trips, trad climbing and hard multi-pitches routes motivate me the most


Birthday? 16/04/1978

Year you first started climbing? 1988

Three climbing achievements you are most proud of:

  • Biographie, 9a+, Céüse, France
  • 2nd place in Dresden 2006 Lead World Cup
  • Freeing with Stephanie Bodet, Arnaud Petit & Laurent Triay of Tough Enough (8b+), 330m, 7b/7c+/8b/7b+/8a+/8a+/8b/8b+/8b+/8b, Karambony, Madagascar

Memory/story of the first time you ever went climbing: I can't go up, I don't want to go down.

Favorite climbing area: Céüse, France.

Best climbing experience? I don't know, maybe El Cap’s Nose.

Worst climbing experience? I have forgotten.

What's your dream trip? Where? With who? Big wall, mountain, extreme free climbing, trad, good friends.

Guilty pleasure: Having a long lie.

BD gear you use every time you go climbing: Harness, chalk bag, quickdraws, ATC, pack.

Something that annoys you while climbing: Anchors.

What/who inspires you in climbing? The void.

Favorite aprés-climbing meal: Pasta, pizza, microwave warm-up meal... anything quickly ready.

Favorite climbing flick: Touching the Void

What's in your iPod? Ten Years After, Ange, Alain Bashung, Captain Beefheart, Les Blaireaux, Loïc Lantoine, Freddie King, David Lafore...

Strangest place you've ever woken up: In a stone desert.

Three things you'd never roadtrip without: Climbing shoes, iPod and chocolate.

What's your dream job? I never dream about job.

How are you training when you are not climbing? I rest.

If you could steal one thing and not get caught, what would it be? El Capitan.

If you could have dinner with three people (dead or alive) who would they be? Bob Marley, Paul Preuss and Scarlet Johanson.

Which would you prefer: power of flight or invisibility? With the power of flight, climbing will have no longer interest. Invisibility? Why not, but I think I prefer teleportation.

Do you have any tattoos or piercings? No.