Build My Own FeedBD athlete Jumbo Yokoyama reports on ascent of Mount Hunter's Wall of Shadows
Black Diamond athlete Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama is part of the renowned Japanese alpinist crew dubbed the Giri-Giri Boys. Currently on a long-term roadtrip through North America, Jumbo sent us this report about his ascent of Mount Hunter’s Wall Of Shadows this past spring with Genki Narumi. Jumbo’s commitment to the light-and-fast super-alpinism approach has seen him blitz up many of the Alaska Range’s testpieces—including this one—in impressive style.
How fast the time passed! It has been one month since I and Genki Narumi arrived on the Kahiltna Glacier. We’ve done nothing for climbing; the only progress the past one month is getting fat on our body. We only have 10 more days.
On Kahiltna Glacier, climbers are able to focus on climbing itself thanks to the short approaches. It’s easy to retreat when in case of bad weather, bad condition—even if it’s not my style, but fun definitely! This is the North Buttress of Mt.Hunter. The great Michael Kennedy made its first ascent with Greg Child in 1994, and described their climbing as “The hardest route we’d done in our combined half-century of climbing”. If so, it will be great experience for us to follow that “hardness” on a comparatively safe wall.
At 2:45 on May 17, we left Kahiltna BC. How many times have we walked this way? Not very much during the past 3 weeks; one of those, we tried the route actually—a week ago, we retreated from 2/3 up the route because of crazy strong wind. On that try, we reached the Crystal Highway after a full-day of fun climbing, then bivied on dangerous mushrooms. Next morning, the strong wind: a rare experience also for Lisa who has been Kahiltna base manager for 10 years, and it turned our bivy shelter upside down. Keep climbing? Out of the question! After one more night bivy on the face, we run away in a fluster. When we reached the glacier, we got our haulbag that was cached, thankful it didn’t blown off to somewhere in the gale…
Before leaving this time, the weather forecast said that there is only one and half day for good weather. We never wanted to get bad weather anymore. We had to minimize our stuff, and decided to only take with small lumbar packs per person because we know the route and feel that we can move fast. The only thing we want to do is climb Wall of Shadows, that’s all.
Even if it was pretty steep, we simulclimbed lower section smoothly, swinging leads. We had lots of beta on this part, and could use some V-threads we left a week ago. On The Enigma Pitch, the first crux and originally rated as A4, we saw old rivet on a wide slab. For modern climbers, however, it isn’t needed. We traversed to the left, and then turned back to the right. Not too hard, just fun!
By noon, we reached the Crystal Highway, which was our high point a week ago; could get it just 8 hours today. I was so surprised at the big difference between the last try and now. It’s totally different thing between climbing with beta or nothing, it’s completely different, I think.
Finally, we plunged into the heart of this route; the Somewhere Else Wall Pitch, it must be the other crux (originally A4). Looks so loose, and slightly overhanging… Well, it’s time to enjoy physical labor! Punch snow, tear loose rock, scrape ice from crack, and set protection forcibly. Lots of gear and axes dangled from my body, and I got really hot because of too much clothes. I struggled against everything. It was only 5.10, but it’s totally impossible to describe this situation with only simple number.
When I got over the crux and looked up at the next section, a vintage “Alaskan” ice ribbon continued up a clean corner. We didn’t known of anyone that had climbed it; the past three teams avoided it from the left-hand mixed terrain. It was 15 hours since we started climbing, and we were tired already. Avoid this? No way! Why not go for it? With ease (as far as I could see from belay), Genki led this steep, thin, and sustained ice ribbon using rock gear.
It was the bottom of the 3rd Ice Band where Genki belayed me. We started simulclimbing toward Moonflower, hoping to get to the top before dark, but our calves were almost blowing, so we decided to take a short break on the bottom of Bibler Come Again Exit.
Suddenly, we had spent over six hours sitting here already! Hurriedly, we started climbing again. I heard Genki shouting something with suffering and anger. Who cares? Keep simulclimbing, then we finally reach the Cornice Bivy, 29 hours after we left the glacier. 
We started rappelling soon because we worried that the weather will get worse like a week ago. After 10 hours of struggling (we got into some trouble during the descent because we entered a wrong gully), we could safely stand on the glacier. As I looked up into space, there were no clouds, just blue sky, and I realized that weather forecast was totally useless.
The true summit was far beyond our highest point. “Bad weather forecast” doesn’t have to lead “Don’t go further”; it should be decided by ourselves whether going or not, and remember that negative reasons will be just excuse.
Anyway, let us congratulate ourselves on our climbing and being safe now! One hour later, we could get back to our sweet home successfully. Cheers!
— Katsutaka “JUMBO” Yokoyama
Climbing Notes:
4th ascent of Wall of Shadows (from new variation) to the top of North Buttress (Alaska Grade 6, 5.10- WI5+ M6R)
May 17 (to Moonflower)-18 (to Cornice Bivy and descent on Moonflower), 2009
Genki Narumi, Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama
United States / English 
