BD athlete Adam Ondra reports on his historic 8c+ onsight spree in Spain
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra is on a tear like never before—within a week's time during his trip to northern Spain he onsighted not one, not two, not three but FOUR routes graded 8c+ (plus a handful of routes in the 8b-8c range). The only other climber to have ever onsighted 8c+ is Ondra's fellow BD athlete Patxi Usobiaga. Below is the email Ondra sent us after he had done two of his 8c+ onsights (see video below, as well). Further cementing his status as the top sport climber in the world right now, Ondra also made a 9a+ first ascent this past weekend (see photos and video below).
From: Adam Ondra
Date: March 8, 2011 2:39:32 AM
I am still in Spain, now at Patxi´s home. I had wanted to take some warming up days in Extauri to get used to onsighting on the rock again by trying many 8b´s and 8a´s, but already back at home I felt in a good shape. I decided to try an 8c (Fuck the Police) and surprisingly I managed to do it in the direct sun with relative ease. I changed my opinion about warming up then and went for an 8c+ (Kidetasunaren Balio Erantsia) in the the cool breeze of late afternoon. The route was almost vertical, crimpy and that is exactly what suits me. I fought through the crux section and then just didn´t fall. I couldn´t believe it, happy times!
The next day, I was quite nervous, because there was still the main goal for me, Bizi Euskaraz (8c+), the one Patxi onsighted a few years ago (hope he will be able crush soon again, good luck in the treatment man!). I can tell you I was nervous, though strong all the way except the final part where I messed it up, hesitated long before making the dyno, but fortunately not too long to fall off. I can´t tell you much about grades, since I can´t compare them with anything else, but I guess they can be more or less OK.