BD athlete Barbara Zangerl repeats Peace (5.13c) in Tuolumne Meadows, California
Black Diamond athlete Barbara Zangerl continues her evolution as a climber, this time traveling to Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows, where she managed to pull off an ascent of Peace (5.13c) an epically sustained line of technical knobs. Below is her report as well as some photos by Christian Pfanzelt of her ascent of Peace.
This year, I went on my fall vacation with Hansjörg Auer to America, to Yosemite National Park. It has always been one of my biggest dreams to go climbing there.
After a minor difficulty checking-in to the famous Camp 4, we made our first attempt on the Rostrum's Regular Route (5.11c). It’s all about squeezing, jamming, scratching and hoping that all my limbs stay in the crack. That was really a hard introduction to crack climbing. And also during that first week, we tried Secret Passage (VI 5.13c), but in the 35°C (95°F) heat, that attempt ended rather quickly.
During our first two weeks there, we didn’t get the best climbing weather. At the beginning it was extremely hot and then a surprising onset of winter, so we decided to take off for Red Rocks in Las Vegas, Nevada and then to Tuolumne Meadows. At Red Rocks, one can enjoy the best rock and invest all one’s energy into various routes, and when the energy isn’t there, one can spend a casual evening in a casino.
A mega-classic route was waiting for us in Tuolumne: Peace (5.13c). Seventy meters of tiny knobs intertwined with very difficult boulder moves. Shortly before we left, I was happy to have climbed it cleanly.
And just at the end of our trip, we had a serious incident to report. While attempting Quantum Mechanic (IV 5.13), Hansjörg took a huge whipper when he was close to the top of the route… his record fall was a full 25 meters (80+ feet)!! He ended up breaking his navicular bone, a small bone in his hand. If only Hansjörg would have had a #6 Camalot for that final chimney move!