BD athlete Barbara Zangerl repeats Peace (5.13c) in Tuolumne Meadows, California // Black Diamond Journal

Recent Talk

Chris Spanis commented on
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT: Mercury and Onyx packs
"I LOVE this pack. My Mercury 65 floated my gear from camp to camp on several..."

Jason commented on
Introducing Camalot X4 — Coming Spring 2013
"I don't know what the big deal with mastercams is. I bought one and noticed..."

Gavin Jensen commented on
BD athlete Brittany Griffith reports on climbing at Australia's Taipan Wall and Mount Arapiles
"This video made my hands sweat, made me relive when I led this with TWO..."

Dave Fisher commented on
QC Lab: Daisy chain dangers
"Yes, spot on mate !."

BD crew commented on
QC Lab: From the Archives
"@brian - these are typical peak loads that the bolt or quickdraw would see..."

BD crew commented on
QC Lab: Retiring Old Ropes
"@david Hopwood - good articles - thanks for the links. All of those..."

BD crew commented on
QC Lab—The Dangers Of Modifying Your Gear
"@ ben cook - per instructions - clipping directly into thumb loop is not a..."

what? commented on
Video #2: BD athlete Alex Honnold making the first ascent of A Gift From Wyoming (5.13) on Yosemite's Leaning Tower
"shutup wendy -_-"

Paul commented on
ROCKLANDS: Nalle Hukkataival visits South Africa's famed boulders
"Nalle Hukkataival climbing amazing looking hard boulders in Rocklands! Nice!!"

Brian commented on
QC Lab: From the Archives
"Thanks for the awesome info! I was curious when you say, "Typical sport..."

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

BD athlete Barbara Zangerl repeats Peace (5.13c) in Tuolumne Meadows, California

Black Diamond athlete Barbara Zangerl continues her evolution as a climber, this time traveling to Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows, where she managed to pull off an ascent of Peace (5.13c) an epically sustained line of technical knobs. Below is her report as well as some photos by Christian Pfanzelt of her ascent of Peace.

babsi

This year, I went on my fall vacation with Hansjörg Auer to America, to Yosemite National Park. It has always been one of my biggest dreams to go climbing there.

After a minor difficulty checking-in to the famous Camp 4, we made our first attempt on the Rostrum's Regular Route (5.11c). It’s all about squeezing, jamming, scratching and hoping that all my limbs stay in the crack. That was really a hard introduction to crack climbing. And also during that first week, we tried Secret Passage (VI 5.13c), but in the 35°C (95°F) heat, that attempt ended rather quickly.

During our first two weeks there, we didn’t get the best climbing weather. At the beginning it was extremely hot and then a surprising onset of winter, so we decided to take off for Red Rocks in Las Vegas, Nevada and then to Tuolumne Meadows. At Red Rocks, one can enjoy the best rock and invest all one’s energy into various routes, and when the energy isn’t there, one can spend a casual evening in a casino.

A mega-classic route was waiting for us in Tuolumne: Peace (5.13c). Seventy meters of tiny knobs intertwined with very difficult boulder moves. Shortly before we left, I was happy to have climbed it cleanly. babsi

And just at the end of our trip, we had a serious incident to report. While attempting Quantum Mechanic (IV 5.13), Hansjörg took a huge whipper when he was close to the top of the route… his record fall was a full 25 meters (80+ feet)!! He ended up breaking his navicular bone, a small bone in his hand. If only Hansjörg would have had a #6 Camalot for that final chimney move!