Build My Own FeedBD athlete Kevin Mahoney attempts ski descent of Denali's 8000-foot South Face
Black Diamond athlete Kevin Mahoney headed up to Alaska with Dan Corn a few months ago to have a go at skiing the massive South Face of Denali. Though the duo didn’t pull the feat off, they did have a wild adventure on one of the greatest peaks in North America. Below is a trip report, photos and video clip that Mahoney sent us that beautifully details the challenges involved with such an endeavor.
“Daddy, did you ski with Dan Corn-on-the-cob?” my daughter Annika asked on the satellite phone.
“No, sweetheart,” was my immediate response.
“What have you been doing?” came from her just as quick.
“Well, we did ski, but…” I then realized the simplicity of her question and the complexity of my answer. We had skied, in fact we had our skis on our feet for 60 miles and over 15,000 vertical feet, but we had not skied our objective. I realized that the simple joy of skiing—that my three-year old daughter had experienced during the winter—was being lost in the objective-driven nature of a ski mountaineering expedition. Just reading those last three words stink of self-aggrandizement.
Dan Corn, a transplant New Hampshire climber/skier and myself a life long New Hampshire resident had concocted a scheme to climb and ski the South Face of Denali, the highest peak in North America. It started simply to go skiing together in the mountains but evolved into an objective that had not yet been completed and a good excuse to have some fun in the mountains all the while fooling ourselves that we weren’t just on vacation.
As a family man I have to balance the adventure driven passion for wild places and my need to be with my three girls (my wife, Claire, and daughters, Annika and Eliza). It’s a challenge I will live with the rest of my life. Growing up in NH I was blessed to live within skiing-distance to my family’s little ski resort, King Pine ski area. The combination of skiing almost every day and the need to cut through the woods to make the small 350 vertical feet more interesting created a curiosity that has never left me.
I had taken many years off from skiing to pursue my other winter obsession: ice climbing. Skiing came back into my life through my pursuit of my IFMGA guides certification and I quickly started thinking of all the adventures I could embark on.
I had been on the South Face of Denali once before and was smitten by its diversity. It had it all big rock buttresses, snaking ice lines, and 50-60 degree snow slopes that near continuously connect for 8,000 feet. Essentially it was a one stop shopping for crazed winter addicts seeking adventure. Our initial intent was to ski up the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, set up a basecamp at the base of the face, and dream of face shoots and shrund launching for a few days while we acclimatized.
Ah if life could be so clean and well planned there would be no war, no starvation and no reality TV…
Within two days we had basecamp set up and the weather was stable, so we felt the need to get on the face immediately. Our new plan was to pack up four days of food and acclimatize on the face as we climbed it then ski from the summit back to basecamp and celebrate with the single malt I had bought myself for my 40th birthday.
Excitement had outweighed prudence. We set out burdened with far too much weight to ski 55-degree slopes—never mind launching the shrund. The conditions were marginal at best. A windy 10 days in the beginning of May had scoured the face and left only the firm snow that the sun had baked into a crust. The first hint that conditions were not prime for skiing should have been that the climbing conditions were so good. The second should have been that new prototype stainless steel Sabretooth crampons needed double-kicks to set. Either way we continued marveling at the beauty of the Alaska Range and how nice it was to be climbing in the sun. At 14,400 feet we dug/chipped out a bivy ledge for our Firstlight tent and crawled in.
We both knew there was a flaw in our new plan but we were tired and needed to eat, drink and sleep so we ignored the inevitable discussion about the next day. After a frosty night and instant coffee we faced the music. The conditions were not prime for skiing. Another round of black crystals melted in water and we hatched a new plan. We would need more snow and acclimatizing for success. To accomplish this we would descend from our camp and pack up to take the long journey out to the Kahiltna Glacier and up to the 14,200’ Basin camp on the West Buttress. Once there we could get used to the thin air and wait out the straight down snowstorms that would blanket the range and make prime conditions on the South face.
Being delusional is a character trait that all big mountain adventurers share. You have to believe that when things are bad they will get better before you have to leave. Eventually reality sets in and the truth is accepted. Skiing was not happening for us this trip. Fortunately, being delusional, I look forward to the next time and the burning legs from 8,000 feet of powder!
— Kevin Mahoney
United States / English
22 Dec 2009, 1:58AM
Great Ski Expedition! Thanks for making great equipment. Without it I can't travel in the wilderness!
Merry Xmas and Happy Holidays to the whole Black Diamond team
- Victor
Southern California
22 Dec 2009, 7:42PM
Nice effort. Got to work with the hand your dealt up there.
After meeting Kevin in the Ruth Gorge quite a few years ago I've always been a booster. The guy is not only way talented, but quite humble and super nice. Not just a great skier either; the guy is the wildest kiddie sled rider I've ever born witness too. I'm talking about steep avy debris cones, terminal velocities, and chinese acrobat style cartwheels . . . mind blowing stuff!
15 Jan 2010, 4:32PM
The photos look great, love to hear about the gear you guys brought with you. Two cobras seems like an interesting choice, but I don't know much about the root tbh.