BD athlete Tim Emmett establishes the first E10 in Wales
Black Diamond athlete Tim Emmett recently established Muy Caliente!, the first E10 in Wales. Below is Emmett’s report about the heady climb, along with some excellent photos taken by Simon Wilson.
Last summer I spotted a line of holds breaching a smooth overhanging wall in Stennis Ford, Pembroke. I love that place and have climbed many of the brilliant routes down there. When I saw it may be possible to link the holds, I also realised there was a massive runout with no protection and a potential groundfall from 20 metres. I tried many of the moves from a toprope, but could never link them in one go. Time was running out and I had one chance to attempt to lead it before going to a wedding and then flying out to Canada for the summer. I decided to go for it, but really I was not ready and very nearly fell off on the runout section. In fact I have never been so close to falling, without falling—it was pretty scary! I got the gear in after the runout and fell off!
This year I trained a lot, and tried many things to get stronger than ever before… then I broke my leg snowboarding! Oops.
The hospital wanted to put me in a cast, but I asked for a removable one instead. I got one (with a nice edge that might work in the climbing wall!) and carried on training, doing deadhanging, campusing and one-foot circuits at the climbing wall. Eight weeks later, I got the all clear to "resume normal activity" so started climbing on toprope. Three weeks after that I headed for Pembroke to see if I could do the moves on my project. I couldn't, so spent many days returning to the climb, each time failing to do it in one go.
After a brilliant week climbing and filming with Dave MacLeod and BBC Scotland in the Outer Hebrides, I returned to Pembroke. This was my last chance once again to complete the climb before flying back to Canada for the summer!
I felt really good, well-rested, good skin and very light too. I went for it and climbed past my high point, relaxed and confident. I set up for the final crux, went for it, and again I was the closest I have been to falling without falling off. The cameraman Dave Brown filming the ascent said "It's the first time I have ever seen some one fall without letting go!"
Somehow I hung on and managed to get to the top. Woo hoo! I decided to grade Muy Caliente! E10 6c (F8b) and so the first E10 in Wales.
Go for it, it's one minute from the car park!