BD athletes Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell attempt a new free route on El Capitan—Dispatch #3
Black Diamond athletes Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell have teamed up this fall for an attempt at free climbing a new 1000-meter route on Yosemite's El Capitan that roughly follows the aid line Mescalito. Caldwell, the most accomplished El Cap free climber in the world, has already spent quite a few days on the route, sussing out the feasibility of freeing the line—one that he unequivocally calls the hardest he has ever attempted on El Cap. Jorgeson, an El Cap rookie but a news-maker for his bold bouldering ascents and last year's spree of gritstone repeats in the U.K, will be sending us iPhone dispatches from the wall, with photos, video and updates on the attempt.
Follow along here in the Black Diamond Journal as we publish Jorgeson's exclusive dispatches!
From: Kevin Jorgeson
Subject: Dispatch 3
Date: October 24, 2009 12:07:16 PM MDT
Tommy is down there right now, 4 pitches below Wino Tower, looking at the 10 foot section that will dictate if the route will go via this particular line. I checked it out yesterday but it's at the limit of possibility. Hopefully he can work his magic and see something I didn't. This route is sick. I'm totally blown away. I knew it was going to be hard, but nearly every move is hard! It would be impossible to feel any sort of optimism on the final push, as this thing literally is not over until it's over. Totally badass and the most futuristic climb in the world. Hands down. It takes optimism to be up here in the first place, but it's so easy to fall, on any move, that I can only dream of how hard it will be to keep it cool when the day comes. When the temps are right, your mind is sharp but calm, you are moving with confidence and in the best shape of your life, there will then and only then be a chance. The pieces of the puzzle are all here however. I think. We'll know in an hour or so. It's just a matter of putting it all together, dozens of the most proud, sustained, difficult, beautiful, heads-up pitches anywhere.