Marko Prezelj and crew on-sight three routes in the Indian Himalayas
BD athlete Marko Prezelj recently arrived home from a mind-blowing trip to the Eastern Himalaya. Following are a few photos of his on-sight routes and a quick write-up.
I've returned from a very intense climbing trip to Indian Himalaya. We were planing to climb in the Rimo region (East Karakoram) but at the end we didn't get the permit from the Iindian army, so we decided for Bhagirathis just three weeks before departure. When we arrived in BC there was one week of very unpleasant weather and we didn't expect very much from the trip. But our free approach proved to be very good since we had to break the snow to the climbs first and choose the climbs according to the overall conditions - at the beginning there was plenty of snow everywhere and at the end of the trip we found good conditions for rock climbing on the steep walls facing south.
In general it was a kind of "on sight" trip. Great.
With Rok Blagus and Luka Lindic we managed to realize three climbs.
September 15: Bhagirathi 4 (~6200 m), W face in the left part, 1000 m, mixed route, D+. Descent over the ascent line (4 rappels with double rope).
September 21-22: Bhagirathi 3 (6454 m), W face, 1300 m, mixed route - ED (6b, M5, WI5, 2×rappel). Descent on the east side.
September 29 - October 1: Bhagirathi 2 (6512 m), SW face and W ridge, 1300 m, mixed route, ED+/ABO (6b+, M8, WI6+, 5m rappel). Descent on the east side.
Best regards —Marko