Build My Own FeedQC Lab—Re-slinging Camalots and C3s
I get a lot of emails about re-slinging cams:
- Do I really need to send my Camalots and C3s into BD to have them re-slung?
- Can I re-sling them by myself?
- Can I have someone with a bartackers re-sling my cams?
- Is it ok to use a piece of nylon with a knot? What about Spectra/Dyneema?
- Will you re-sling non-BD cams?
- Why does BD use that weird sew job on the C3s and Camalots and not just use a single loop of webbing?
- Many companies are now using 10mm Dyneema or Spectra… why don’t you guys do that? And can I re-sling mine with 10mm?
- Many companies use double length slings, can I re-sling my Camalots this way?
Yowsa! And it goes on and on...
Here’s the low-down on re-slinging cams from the QC Lab perspective:
General
Contrary to popular belief, climbing gear does not last forever. Plastics and textiles aren’t as durable as metals, and need to be inspected and possibly replaced more often. Check your cam slings, and if they look beat, send them off for replacement—preferably to the manufacturer. General guidelines for replacing slings on cams are as follows:
• With occasional use: slings should be replaced every 5-8 years
• With frequent use: slings should be replaced 2-5 years.
Of course, these are just guidelines. A brand new cam sling could get dusted after one pitch if the sling ran over a razorblade granite edge and got sawed back and forth while jugging or something… Remember it’s every individual climber’s responsibility to check their gear often, and when it doubt, throw it out.
[A cam sling in time for replacement]
Camalot and C3 sling design
The previous generation of BD Camalots had a cast stainless steel tailpiece. There was a nice big surface area with a smooth radius. The webbing went through this and was sewn in a single loop. When we redesigned the Camalots in 2004 we wanted to make them lighter and also allow more surgically precise when placing. Hence was born the current thumb loop. One of the challenges came when adding the sling to the mix. The deformation of the thumb loop under load is significant. I dug up the following photos from when we were developing the new Camalots.
[Camalot thumb loop under load.]
Just sewing a loop of 11/16” SuperTape (as was used before) didn’t get us to where we wanted to be strength-wise. Why? Because when the Camalot was loaded during testing, the cable pinches down, and ultimately cut the webbing at loads less than we were happy with (gunnin’ for 14 kN but only getting about 10 kN). Same with similar-width Spectra.
[During ultimate testing, the cable pinches and cuts a single layer of webbing (Spectra in this case).]
We also noticed that during drop testing, the cabled thumb loop would get tweaked under standard Indian Creek whipper-type loads. And no one wants to throw down significant dough on a brand new cam only to have the thumb loop formed into a “V” after just a few lobbers.
So we determined that having the double layer of webbing was substantial enough to get us the strength we were after, didn’t cut the webbing and produced less tweakability (engineering term) of the thumb loop.
[A double layer Camalot sling doesn’t cut under ultimate strength testing.]
And for those wondering, yes, we also experimented with the extendable sling design and found that when the sling is extended the cams not only failed at lower loads, but the thumb loop was damaged more easily.
[Tweaked vs. non-tweaked thumb loop after similar falls (loads).]
Basically, in all cases the perceived benefits were outweighed by our strength and durability requirements, therefore we went with the sling configuration you see on the current Black Diamond Camalot line.
[Double-layer sling configuration shown on current BD Camalots.]
Re-slinging Black Diamond Camalots and C3s
So what and how should you re-sling your BD cams? Of course you can do anything you like:
• One-inch tubular webbing with a knot will work.
• Sending them to someone that knows how to sew structural climbing gear, and have them bartack a single loop of SuperTape will work.
• Having someone that knows what they’re doing bartack a double length of SuperTape or 10 mm Dynex will work.
But it’s important that you understand the ramifications of such methods:
• The strength will be compromised in all cases.
• The thumb loop will get tweaked much easier in all cases.
• BD doesn’t warrant any modifications to the design of our products.
And note:
• Dyneema/Spectra doesn’t hold a knot. Never use a knot with Dyneema/Spectra.
• And when it comes to sewing any structural climbing gear, mom’s sewing machine won’t cut it. Be sure to go to a shop that has experience with CLIMBING gear and knows what they’re doing.
Bottom Line
• Check your gear often. If it’s worn out, replace or repair it.
• BD Camalot slings are sewn the way they are for several reasons—don’t change it.
• It’s always best to contact the original equipment manufacturer of any product to ask for recommendations on the most appropriate way for repair.
BD will replace slings ONLY on Camalots (old tail piece and latest generation) and C3s (i.e., you can’t send us another company’s cams to be re-slung). QUESTIONS? Send an email to our Warranty Department at: warranty@bdel.com
o New slings cost $5.00 and trigger wire replacements are $10.00. There is a $12.00 flat-rate charge for return shipping (Contiguous U.S. return addresses only, 20 cams or less). If you live outside of the contiguous United States, have more than 20 cams you want reslung, or have any shipping questions, just email the Warranty Department at: warranty@bdel.com.
o Send to:
Black Diamond Warranty & Repair
2084 East 3900 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84124
o Include all your contact and return shipping info, payment, and a brief description of what you need/want done. We accept Visa/MC, personal check, or money order. Allow three weeks once we receive your return.
I hope that helps explain some of the common questions when it comes to replacing slings on cams.
Whip away,
KP
United States / English 
25 Mar 2013, 2:16PM
This is some great info. I have a few older C4s with the stainless steel end piece, and I figure I should replace the slings. Can I replace it with a 16mm tubular webbing with a water knot, or am I going to kill myself?
28 Feb 2013, 9:14PM
For many, many years, I have been SO CLOSE to replacing all my cams with C4's, but the one thing that keeps me from doing so is the lack of an extendable sling. Funny (as in 'ironic') how the partner that pushes me most to do so always seems to rave about the extendable slings on my cams, but when we use his rack of BD cams, we may as well count on packing an extra, dedicated QD for each BD cam. (We climb Colorado Front Range, mostly Boulder) PLEASE, PLEASE find a way to engineer a stem that finally incorporates all the best features, i.e. extendable sling and high clip-in point (for the 1% of climbers who aid on a regular basis). Do that, and I'm the first in line to buy. And my guess is there'll be a lot more behind me. Please don't force us to buy that Limey knock-off with its extendable sling. Thanks.
5 Feb 2013, 9:04PM
Excellent information about re-slinging Camalots with Nylon or Spectra,congratulations for made the best clean and safety equipment."saludos desde Esquel,Patagonia "(Argentina)
31 Jan 2013, 9:49AM
@John, Here's the word from KP - "As the post explains, BD uses particular sling configurations with it's cams for several reasons and does not recommend deviating from the manufacturer's original method. In some cases, unfavorable = catastrophic."
28 Jan 2013, 8:48AM
Do you have more specific descriptions or test results of the "unfavorable results" when bartacks (and knots) of doubled slings jam in the steel thumb rests? Are we talking complete failure or just inconveniences? I assume it's a wide spectrum of results but just curious about any specific info. I really want extendable slings on my cams and it seems like the bartack position would be easy to manage in most situations, but if there is evidence of bad results I'll deal with the inconvenience. Thx!
13 Sep 2012, 10:23AM
@Matthew: BD will re-sling earlier generation (ie. stainless steel thumb rest) Camalots with the standard nylon super tape (as was originally supplied).
It is not recommended to re-sling these generation cams with doubled slings as it is possible when loaded, that the bartack portion of the sling gets jammed into the Stainless steel thumb rest with unfavorable results.
For similar reasons, BD does not re-sling C4 Camalots (with the thumb loop) with doubled slings.
6 Sep 2012, 1:37PM
Like Trevor i have the 2nd generation BD camalots with the steel tailpipe. I was wanting to have them reslung with 10mm Dyneema or spectra in double length that can extend in order to not need a quickdraw everytime i clip in order to save weight and space on my rack. Nothing was mentioned in the above statement about not being able to resling these steel tailpipe BD cams with this type of sling so would you guys be able to do this or not? And what are your professional thoughts on this type of extendable sling on a BD steel tailpipe cam instead of attaching quickdraws?
1 Aug 2012, 4:08PM
Thanks for the great info. Any thoughts on a 8mm sling double wrapped girth hitched onto the thumb loop? I realize that the girth hitch is controversial and weak, but I'm curious if a second wrap would help distribute the load enough to make a difference? Minus the small wad that this would create on the thumb loop, it seems like it could be a good way to drop some weight.
25 Jul 2012, 4:32PM
@DanielC Bounce testing generates approx 500-800 lbs—you're not damaging the thumb loop at these relatively low loads.
Go ahead and continue clipping into the thumb loops for bounce testing because, as you surely know, in aid climbing those precious inches add up...
23 Jul 2012, 5:23PM
Following-up on George Bracksieck question - In aid climbing, is it ok to clip into the thumb loop and bounce test? As standard practice, I clip my aiders into the thumb loop instead of webbing to gain a few precious inches but now after reading this article, I'm wondering if I'm damaging the thumb loop in the process.
18 May 2012, 11:41AM
@ George Bracksieck: The cable loop is 2kN weaker if you clip a carabiner to it and for sure more likely to tweak the cable. This is all covered in the Camalot instructions, which you can download here: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/files/MM5865_E%20Camalot%20IS_WEB.pdf
13 May 2012, 10:18AM
From the BD statements and photos showing cable-loop tweaks and failures resulting from slings other than what BD installs, I infer that a carabiner clipped into the cable loop (and loaded) will also compromise the strength of the cable loop. Is that true? BD, please respond!
18 Aug 2011, 12:58PM
Great article. Good pictures to back the claims up. Thanks a lot.
22 Apr 2011, 2:21PM
Great explanation. In a day and age where everyone thinks they're an armchair engineer and have better ideas for product design than the manufacturers, (just read a couple Amazon or Newegg reviews) it's refreshing to see an explanation of the design, tradeoffs, and testing. Kudos to a much better response than the usual "Trust me I'm a doctor"!
17 Nov 2010, 9:35AM
@ Chris — As noted in the instructions that come with every Camalot: "Clip the unit into the rope using a carabiner attached to the end of the sling or wire loop. Clipping directly into the wire loop with a carabiner can reduce the strength of the unit by up to 2 kN (450 lbf)."
Also from the instructions: "Your Camalot’s wire loop can be damaged or deformed in a very hard fall. Inspect the cable for fraying and retire if damaged." Which is more likely if you were clipped directly into the wire loop.
16 Nov 2010, 4:06PM
Do you have suggestions for re-slinging the previous generation of camalots without the thumb loop? What types of material work with the stainless steel tailpiece?
I've reslung a couple with 7mm cordelette, but this article has me wondering if I should be using webbing.
10 Nov 2010, 9:01PM
G-day
I read this article and it was very informative about what to do when the slings on my C4's die. But I was wondering if the sling width affects the strength of the cam, is there issues (significant loss of strength) with clipping a crab or quickdraw directly to the thumb loop? I have always just used the sling when I climb. But I was just wondering especially after reading this and it's always good to know the limitations of the gear you have.
All the best
Chris
1 Sep 2010, 5:26PM
Gracias por la información Equipo Black Diamond.
Saludos
22 Apr 2010, 12:18PM
We just went over to the Warranty Department and spoke to the man in charge over there, Chris Thomas. This is what he had to say:
Canada shipping, Darren LeBlanc: We will work on Canadian customers’ cams, however, the customer must pay for all actual shipping, customs, and duties—both ways. The actual shipping cost will vary significantly based on customer location, weight, and size of the shipment. We’re happy to provide quotes for shipping in advance based on a customer’s specific situation.
Old cams, Trevor: We can replace slings on any BD cam that was originally sold with a sling. Some of the older generation Camalots didn’t come with a sling—just a bare cable—for a clip in point, and these cams are not suitable for use with a sling.
21 Apr 2010, 9:29PM
genius design, this is why black diamond gear is the best. thanks for sharing, very insightful.
18 Apr 2010, 9:06PM
I have a set of camelots from the late ninities that have had light use (no whippers on them and I took a 9 year hiatus).
I wasn't sure if i could send them in for new slings based on this statement above.."BD will replace slings ONLY on Camalots (old tail piece and latest generation) and C3s."
As I dont see the model i have above in the photos I was wondering if I'd be able to send them in?
thx!
12 Apr 2010, 2:28PM
Thank you for all the information regarding the new sling design, it has proved very insightful. However, in the 'fine print' regarding re-slinging Camalots, you indicate that you will post re-slung Camalots to "U.S. return addresses only". What should I do about having a Camalot re-slung by Black Diamond when I live in Canada? Will you post re-slung Camalots there, and if so, how much more will that cost?
Thanks for your assistance.
Best regards,
Darren LeBlanc