Build My Own FeedBD athlete Dodo Kopold makes big ascents in the High Tatra mountains
In late November, Black Diamond athlete Dodo Kopold pulled off a string of impressive alpine ascents in the High Tatra mountains on the border of Poland and Slovakia. Below is his email with photos from the four days of climbing.
From: Dodo Kopold
Sent: Freitag, 4. Dezember 2009 12:41
Subject: 3-in-1
What a great place! In nighttime at half past eleven I am waiting on Bratislava railway station for my train to High Tatras. At 5.50 AM I am in Poprad and take a bus to Javorina village, close to Poland border. At 9.00AM, after nearly two hours of walking, I can start to climb. Welcome to Tatra national park—for many people, still unknown mountains.
During 26-29 of November I visited the Tatra mountains. I know usually in this date nobody climbs here because of the bad conditions but now I know that this argument is a big mistake—the conditions were excellent.
My first climb was in Rohovy Hreben. This huge face has a long history and most of the routes here are long and difficult. But the longest one in this face is the route called Diagonala (V-/A1 60°). My idea was to climb this route solo, free and fast. I call this style "3-in-1".
The hardest part of the Diagonala route is after 40m of climbing where there is a steep, overhang wall. Around 50m of difficult climbing and after that is a long section of mixed terrain with several steep ice steps. In short time I made it through this hardest pitch, then packed up the rope and I climbed to the summit at 2300m.
First solo climb of this route, first free ascent (graded VII UIAA), and for sure the fastest climb in 2.5 hours. I was happy. I descended under the face and my next idea was to move across the mountain to another valley. The best idea how to reach the other valley was to climb a new route. Why not! Left part of the face has some free space for a new routes. In short time I climbed a new mix route in grade IV around 400m long. From summit I easily descended to the next valley where I established my first bivy and I slept in my favourite BD single-wall tent.
Next morning I woke up early. My plan was to link up two routes, climb the routes free and solo. Again "3-in-1". First route called Kominom (V/A1), which means Chimney. Then cross the ice ramp and continue in steep rock face up to tower Veza Zeleznej Brany. Long time ago I climbed the Kominom in blizzard weather, -23°C and with cold bivy. This time the conditions were more friendly. The hardest section in steep rock I climbed without gloves on my hands. It was just a few very tricky moves. But after, when I crossed the ice ramp and I reached my second route, then it was hard. Steep thin ice, no good protection and 50m of difficult climbing. After 7 hours I reached the summit in fog and snow. It was first time what I reached this summit. The descent was a big unknown for me. Just down climb and down climb until I reach my bivy place.
Third day in the mountains, my friend Andrej comes in the morning. Our idea was to climb one of the longest routes in Tatras: the northeast ridge to Ganek. Around 800-1000m of climbing. I was tired after two day but climbing in two has many sweets. We climbed the route in two days, the second day in blizzard but we were happy. This route means a lot for us. Thank you, Andrej.
Four days in the mountains called High Tatras. Five routes, more than 2000m of climbing in rock, ice, frozen grass. Beautiful bivy on small ledge on the north face of Ganek, hours of fear during my solo climbs—but I am happy. And what is the best is what is still left for me to climb here.
Greetings,
Dodo Kopold
United States / English 
