Build My Own FeedBD athlete Ines Papert reports on her ascent of Illuminati (M11+ WI 6) in Italy
Black Diamond athlete Ines Papert has pulled off a host of impressive ascents, from ice to rock, and her recent ascent of, Illuminati, one of Europe’s most stout multi-pitch mixed climbs, must surely be near the top of her list. Below is her report on the climb, as well as photos from Hans Hornberger.
On the 27th of January I achieved the 3rd redpoint ascent of Illuminati (M11+ WI6+) in Langental (Val Lunga) near Wolkenstein, Italy. In 2006 my Black Diamond team partner Albert Leichtfried discovered this gigantic roof with demanding, runout final pitches. Already then I was keen on a repetition, but the ice in the upper part of the wall made itself rare. I tried for the first time in 2009 with Kurt Astner, but we did not climb any higher because the ice was lacking. I made another attempt in 2010 with the south Tyrolean (and current world champion) Angelika Reiner. This time the temperatures were too low. At -20° a M11 climb in thin gloves was simply not on. The ice was very thin again with the column just touching the ledge. With temperatures like that I did not even want to think about climbing a fragile column. But we never even got that far.
I could not get rid of the thought of Illuminati over the years. Enough of a reason to finally give it a go.
A call to my friend, mountain guide and ice climber Hubert Moroder from St Ulrich was enough to find out about the conditions. He said there was little ice in the exit pitches but that it might be sufficient for an ascent. I had to look for myself. This time, my girlfriend Lisi Steurer came along.
The tension increased. I could hardly wait to see the route.
Finally we stood below it. It was like a dream. The ice was shimmering blue, the sun shone on the summits, the temperatures were if anything too warm for the season. I felt I could do it today.
And I got over the roof, at the first attempt this time. We only climbed the ice pitches after the sun had taken its leave and gone behind the mountain. We did not want to expose ourselves, because icicles kept falling off.
Then I stood in front of the 20 m high ice column of one meter diameter and my stomach clenched for a moment. No screws, and over 20 meters of vertical climbing ... would my nerves do that? I did a bit of introspection, but it felt good inside. I climbed higher, above the tension crack and could finally set the first reasonable screw.
A little detour, and we reached the exit. We were jubilant, Lisi about passing her final exams, I about passing the Illuminati exam.
We thank Hubert Moroder (a good address for guided ice and mixed climbs) and his wonderful family for their hospitality and the accommodation at the Residence Lastei.
Where to next? Norway it is, and I'm looking forward to that a lot.
— Ines
United States / English 
