Build My Own FeedBD athlete Paul Robinson climbs The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland
Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson is living the full-time, globally roadtripping climber dream—and he's making the most of it. He recently took down another V15, this time it was the second ascent of Dave Graham's The Story of Two Worlds. Below is the report and photos Paul sent us shortly after making the ascent.
_2011321145447.jpg "BD athlete Paul Robinson climbs The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland")
Ever since its first ascent in 2006, I had heard about this boulder problem in Cresciano called The Story of Two Worlds. All I knew was that it was a very hard low start to Tony Lamprecht's The Dagger. When I first came to Switzerland in 2008, I got really psyched on the line and at the time thought it to be near impossible. I was unfortunately unable to even try the climb that trip but promised myself that I would get back as soon as possible for my first attempts on the iconic boulder.
Over the two years that I was not in Switzerland, the boulder began to get a reputation as one of the hardest boulders in Europe. Many people from around the world came to Switzerland just to try this testpiece but no one came away with the send. As the boulder became more and more infamous, I got more and more psyched to try it.
This Fall was my first time back to Switzerland since 2008. When I arrived it was too warm to try the boulder howeverit soon enough became cold and I set to work on the stand start, The Dagger. It took me quite some time to figure out a good sequence for the stand start. I eventually did and was psyched to have sent the first portion of The Story of Two Worlds._2011321145447.jpg "BD athlete Paul Robinson climbs The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland")
During the course of the Fall, I tried many other boulder problems in Ticino but always found myself coming back to The Story. Over the months, I began to refine my beta and find new energy saving ways of doing certain moves. In December, I had planned a two month trip to Fontainebleau but was getting very close to completing The Story. My last two weeks in Ticino, I fought snow and rain and climbed on the boulder as much as I could before leaving for Font. I was unable to finish the line but planned to come back after my two months in Font.
After two months of climbing in Font, I was beyond psyched to get back for the line I had been thinking about constantly since leaving Switzerland. On my first day back, with the help of some friends, I made some huge changes to my beta and was psyched on my progression. I not only had better beta but felt that the line truly could be sent!
Over the past two weeks I put in many days worth of efforts into The Story. I continued to refine my beta until I had a tried and true sequence. Once I had this figured out, I felt like the only thing that I was lacking was the endurance needed to complete the climb. For me, climbing on the boulder a lot was the best way for me to get the endurance I needed.
On March 5th, on my second effort of the day, I made it all the way to the end and on the last move to the final jug my heel slipped and I tapped the tree on the side of the boulder. I was devastated. It was such a terrible moment because in my mind I knew the tree did not help me at all but the send did not count. After countless days of trying and making my beta absolutely perfect, I dabbed a tree on the easiest move of the entire climb all the way at the end!
After that day, I needed to take a few days off the climb and let my mind calm down before trying again. I spent one day climbing in the beautiful valley of Valle Verzasca and another resting. After my rest day, I felt ready to again try The Story. I woke up on the morning of March 8th, feeling quite nervous. I knew I could do the boulder, I just had to not screw up.
I warmed up slowly and made my way over to the climb as the sun began to drop in the sky. I tried a few moves very briefly to complete my warm up process and then decided to give the boulder an effort from the ground. I made my way through the moves flawlessly and climbed the boulder to the top for its second ascent!!! I was ecstatic. Everything had come together on that go and the whole process from the highs to the lows was well worth it!
Now that I have climbed many of the established climbs in Ticino, I feel very psyched to begin searching out new lines to climb. There is so much untouched rock in everyone of the valleys in Ticino, it is just going to take some time and energy to find some new amazing lines! I have two weeks left in Ticino before heading back to the states and already have so many lines that I hope to get done before I leave! The psyche is high!
— Paul
United States / English 
