Build My Own FeedBD athletes Kate Rutherford and Brittany Griffith attempt Venturi Effect (IV 5.12) on the Incredible Hulk, High Sierras, California
Black Diamond athletes Kate Rutherford and Brittany Griffith hiked in to the High Sierras famed Incredible Hulk to have a go at the 1200-foot granite wall’s prime line, Venturi Effect. Stacked with numerous techy pitches of 5.11 and 5.12 stemming and jamming, the pair gave it all they had. Though they came up short of a redpoint, Kate did come back with a great story for us to share here in the BD Journal, along with some sweet photos by Andrew Burr.
Have you ever cracked an egg into a frying pan? Now imagine cracking that egg into your climbing pack as you head up to the Incredible Hulk in California’s Sierra Mountains for five days—it oozes in to every crevasse. Even though the 1200-foot Hulk was tucked deep within the High Sierra highcountry, Brittany and I decided we were going deluxe, and I wanted organic eggs for breakfast. I had packed the carton perfectly in the top of my pack, wrapping it in my jacket and shielding the eggs with my helmet. I vowed I would be gentle once we shoulderd our packs and began trudging up the hill. In the parking lot, as I walked back from storing our cooler in the Twin Lakes Ice House, I saw Brittany moving my pack… I watched it in slow motion as it tipped over. It was too late to run to it, so I pretended it didn’t happen, pretended the eggs would be fine. 
Four or five hours later we made it to a sweet bivy on a rocky point. The sun had gone behind the massive Hulk, and we needed jackets. I opened my pack and my nice, new Chaos harness had egg yoke all over it! My jacket, too. Not fair. I used my dirty sock to wipe it off, there was an ugly yellow stain. I had yellow goo on my cool red and white hat too. I was so stoked… not. 
The night was cold, and the morning was colder. We motivated early and were rewarded with no one on the route—and frozen toes. The 10-pitch Venturi Effect is one of the most striking lines up the Hulk. We could see the spectacular striped dihedral, which led to an awesome splitter on the headwall. Brittany waltzed up the first 5.12 crux, stemming beautifully on the striped corner and grunting only once. 
We were freezing as we swapped a few more leads. The sun came out and finally I was warm, I started up the splitter 5.12a finger crack on the headwall. Wee! So much fun! Then all of a sudden I was boiling. My feet were melting and my fingers were shredded. I wanted a nap.
Instead I tried my best to be a good cheerleader as Brittany worked up the steepest 5.12 pitch yet. She was fighting for it, getting pushed around by a crack of leaning overhanging awkwardness. I encouraged louder. She clipped a piece, stepped out on to the slab, and was airborne.
“There are no holds… this is crazy… what the…” And the usually positive Brittany launched into a grouchy tirade.
Stuck at the belay, all I could offer in support was, “It’s really hot.” She pulled back on, looked at the slab, and said she wanted to go home. Sounded good to me. I cleaned the pitch, flailing around, and really didn’t get much figured out. All I wanted was a rest day. The perfect alpine granite of the Venturi Effect was just too much today… fortunately there was time. 
Demoralized, we went “home" to our tiny First Light tent. The next day we spent at the beach, alpine style, lounging on granite boulders and plunging oh-so-briefly in to the turquoise water where the rainbow trout live.
The next attempt went better. Again Brittany floated the third pitch crux, and I the finger crack. The day was warmer but a stiff breeze kept it perfect. 
All of a sudden we were back at the base of our nemesis, Pitch 8, wishing we had figured out the moves better on our previous go. Oops. Brittany headed up there again, the steep bulge looked easier and the awkward crack seemed a little smoother. The topo showed a dotted line on a blank slab. So Brittany got out her go-go-gadget extender arms and stood on a tiny foothold. I held my breath as she reached across to a thin crack. She grabbed it and smoothly stepped across. Whew. Now she was in unknown territory scrapping her way up strange, slabby stemming. She was so close to the belay…. I saw her jump towards it… she dynoed!
Oh, but then she was airborne once more. Apparently that was not the beta.
I followed with good coaching and no dyno to join her at the belay. The next pitch looked wild, I couldn’t wait. But I made sure to ask, “Want to try again?”
“Lets go to the top!” she exclaimed. So up we went in to the evening sun.
United States / English 
29 Jul 2011, 5:06PM
Wow. When I see women cranking like this it makes me psycho-stoked to push it!
28 Jul 2011, 2:52PM
The Hulk is beautiful! This is now on the list. Have viewed these corners before from Positive Vibrations. The place draws you in. Pristine, remote, amazing.
23 Jun 2011, 10:41AM
Photos by Andrew Burr
23 Jun 2011, 9:16AM
Fab story, most excellent photos.
Those gals dance!
Couldn't find the photo credits, who?