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Wednesday, October 12, 2011

How-to Video: Using the Black Diamond ATC-Guide

Yes, the ATC-Guide is an advanced belay/rappel device, but with the basic information in the video below you'll learn how to easily utilize the ATC-Guide's superior belay and rappel capabilities, such as how to belay or lower one or two seconding climbers in guide mode with ease and control.

Get more info on the Black Diamond Equipment's ATC Guide at: blackdiamondequipment.com/​en-us/​shop/​climb/​belay-rappel/​atc-guide

Recent Talk (1)

  • ruzy
    9 Dec 2011, 12:45AM

    Can this be used in guide mode when belaying a leader?

  • Paul Laperriere
    11 Nov 2011, 9:58AM

    Looking at that video, I notice that when she is belaying, the brake hand is with the palm up. It would be better to put the palm down. There is less chance to drop the rope when a fall occur. It's more natural and safe to do it with your palm down and it's easier to put your hand down.

  • Jim
    18 Oct 2010, 8:35PM

    Having played around with this device I wonder why nobody has ever brought up the fact that it can be used as an ascender in an emergency situation along with a prussik to get out of a crevasse or similar self rescue scenario. It is actually very efficient at doing so.

  • BD crew
    28 Aug 2009, 10:54AM

    John -- Smart move practicing these new-to-you belay techniques before attempting them in real-world situations. Being able to safely lower a climber whom you are belaying in "guide" mode takes some practice. We definitely encourage you to continue to learn and understand the basics of using this device. Be safe out there.

  • John Wilder
    28 Aug 2009, 10:44AM

    When I reviewed this device, I quickly discovered that following the method demonstrated in the video above is a great way to drop a climber- as I did just that when I set the device up for a practice run in the gym. Thankfully, it was only a three foot fall, but it was very eye opening. A munter is one way to secure the brake strand, but I would also suggest that redirecting the brake strand up and through another carabiner above the device as a good way to maintain control- this brings the rope into a higher friction angle with the device and also keeps the belayer out of the anchor in case a rescue is needed later on.

  • Laura
    26 Aug 2009, 3:08PM

    Excellent video. I see how is might be best to be able now to be pulling straight down when "milking" the rope through the device. And also show the ideal height of the device location.

    Thank-you for putting together this video!

  • Todd Tumolo
    9 Aug 2009, 6:28PM

    Thanks for the reply on this. I do know that this is written in the instructions. I just wanted to post a comment for those people that do not reference the instructions or those people that could possibly use more technical knowledge before using this device in this manner.

  • BD crew
    31 Jul 2009, 4:01PM

    Todd --

    Your comment above about using a Munter hitch as a back-up while lowering someone from an ATC-Guide that is set up in “guide mode” is a sound suggestion, one that, though not noted in this brief video, is describe in our detailed instructions that come with each ATC-Guide. The instructions, which should be reference for all product usage information, note the following:

    “...Lower the climber by controlling the angle of the ATC-Guide and simultaneously allowing the rope to slide through your braking hand in a controlled manner. If more security is desired during the lowering process, use a secondary belay method as a backup.”

    Thanks for pointing out that this was not noted in the video, and, as always, be safe out there.

  • Todd Tumolo
    30 Jul 2009, 3:02PM

    ATTENTION:

    A few words of advice for people that are watching this and planning on using this device. First of all, it is a wise decision to back up the climbing rope when releasing this device in this mode. The best way to do this is put the brake side of the rope on a munter to your belay loop or redirect the brake strand higher on the anchor. This way when you release the device, if you can with your arm, your partner's weight will not pull the rope from your hand. Which brings me to my second point, adding an extension on the mechanical advantage. If there is a double runner instead of a single, you can step in the loop making it easier to release and freeing your hands for the belay.

    I find it frustrating that these methods are being conveyed to the public when they could seriously cause injury or death to climbers.

  • Christopher Aucoin
    28 Jul 2009, 8:01PM

    I just got this belay device, its very well thought out, and easy to use.

  • Carlos Navas
    28 Jul 2009, 12:35PM

    Great device, after watching the video I felt more comfortable about my ability to set it up.

    Thanks,

    Carlos

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