Build My Own FeedQC Lab: Daisy chain dangers
QC LAB—Daisy chain dangers
I see it all the time. People at the cliff with one or two daisy chains girth hitched to their belay loop or tie-in points, and using them as a personal anchor system when at an anchor. Wrong. Dangerously wrong.
Lets be clear: You should NOT be using a daisy chain to anchor yourself to a belay.
Daisy chains are designed for aid climbing only and to support body weight only. When aid climbing properly, the rope is ALWAYS in the system, and in the event of a fall, the energy absorbing capacity of the rope is used. If you use a daisy chain to anchor yourself to a belay, you’ve now taken the rope out of the equation and are potentially subjecting yourself and the daisy chain to a possible shock-loading scenario. You should NEVER be impact loading a daisy chain. NEVER. Daisy chains and runners don’t stretch much, which means they don’t absorb much energy. This increases the load on the anchor, and you. Worse-case scenario under a severe-impact load, a daisy can snap. Best-case scenario under a severe-impact load, you’ll snap your back.
From our instructions:
Daisy Chains are variable length tie-offs designed to support body weight ONLY. DO NOT use them as part of your belay or protection system. They are NOT designed to hold falls.
Warning: Improper use of Daisy Chains can cause severe shock loads. When clipped to an anchor (or other piece of gear) with a Daisy, never climb above the anchor (illustration 5). In the event of a fall, the Daisy will not stretch, resulting in a severe shock load to you, to the anchor and to all gear in the system. This can potentially injure you and can even cause your gear or anchor to fail.
Another very real and very dangerous issue with using daisy chains is clipping in short. If you incorrectly clip in short to a daisy, it can be potentially bad. Very bad. The thing to remember when clipping in short using a daisy is to use a SECOND carabiner to shorten it up.
From our instructions:
Always use a second carabiner to shorten your daisy chain
Why you may ask? Why not do this?
Basically, it’s possible that when you clip a second loop, or pocket of your daisy, to the main carabiner, attached to the end loop of your daisy, that the end result MAY really be the biner just being clipped across the tack of the pocket, and therefore being really, REALLY weak—as low as 500 pounds. Below is a video that clearly shows the danger. You may have to watch it a few times, because it’s pretty freaker crazy, and no, I’m not a magician.
Crazy eh? It’s almost like you have a 50/50 shot of having the twist in the extra pocket as your shorten up your length. With the correct twist, and if impact loaded, the pocket would blow and you’d be ok… BUT with the incorrect twist and even a very small impact load (say your foot skating off the belay ledge and you falling onto your daisy), the pocket would blow and you’d be airborne. Those odds aren’t good enough for me. Use a second carabiner to clip up short.
From our instructions:
NEVER clip a carabiner in to more than one pocket at a time. If the bar-tacks between the pockets were to fail under load, you would no longer be clipped in! This scenario could occur when any two pockets are connected to a single carabiner
Bottom line: Daisy chains are for aid climbing NOT for use as part of your personal anchor system. Don’t know how to properly anchor yourself using the rope? Don't know how to thread sport anchors without clipping in with a daisy chain? Then go get some instruction from a professional guide IMMEDIATELY before you get yourself hurt. If you’re aid climbing and going to clip your daisy in short, it’s always best to use an ADDITIONAL carabiner to clip to the main carabiner thus avoiding the potential loading scenario above.
Be safe out there,
KP
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Kolin Powick (KP) is a Mechanical Engineer hailing from Calgary, Canada. He has nearly 20 years of experience in the engineering field and has been Black Diamond's Director of Global Quality since 2002. Kolin oversees the testing of all of Black Diamond's gear from the prototype phase through continual final production random sample testing.
United States / English 
4 May 2013, 8:30AM
Yes, spot on mate !.
27 Mar 2013, 9:24AM
So, in short (if I understood it correctly): the daisy chain should only be used as fall protection tool, not as a fall arrest tool (or only in combination with a decent length of dynamic cord)?
26 Mar 2013, 9:10AM
Have a look at the effects of falling on a sling/daisy chain as opposed to falling on a short length of rope.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJPc-moGhWk&feature=youtu.be
So lesson is don't take a fall on a sling (or daisy chain). Even a short length of rope works well. You don't need to buy a purpose made lanyard you can just tie your own. (probably works out cheaper than a daisy chain too :))
14 Mar 2012, 10:30AM
I think the main point to note is that ANY personal anchor system is more susceptible to failure under dynamic loading, not just the daisy chain. This is confirmed by the following link: http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5
When I say personal anchor system, I mean it in the most literal since. The anchor that one person uses to anchor themselves to a belay. This anchor system is separate from the climbing anchor which the rope should be running through. The climbing anchor only should be taking the full load of the second climber should they fall.
It would seem at first that the material in the test video is becoming weaker under the severe load, however it is actually the increased force due to impact that makes the sling fail. When you fall, you are multiplying your weight(force) by a dynamic loading factor which is a function of your fall height and the material properties of the attachment device.
If you replace your daisy with say a dyneema sling or a PAS made from dyneema, well the video shows that under dynamic loading(ie not body weight conditions) the dyneema will fail under the impact of an 80 kg mass(about 177lbs-the weight of a climber plus gear, give or take) dropped from a height that is twice the length of the length of the sling used as an anchor due to the force multiplication. The 177lbf load, after falling the double distance(Factor 2 Fall), is amplified to about about 4580lbf (20.4kN) a dynamic loading factor of about 26 TIMES GREATER.
If you do this to a sling, it will fail. If you do this to a daisy, it will fail. Since the PAS is made of the same material, and has the same strength rating as the test sling, if subjected to the same loading scenario, it will fail.
So really, if you are using a sling or any other type of personal anchor system with minimal elasticity you are just as likely to break said system under dynamic loading. This loading can be generated by a sufficiently heavy climber climbing above an anchor which he/she is clipped into with some minimally elastic device and falling. You must remain static(ie body weight only). "Having slack in the system is bad news."
I think the best way to rig a personal anchor is to tie in to one anchor point with the lead line(which you should be tied in to) and another anchor point with your attachment of choice(daisy, sling, etc) since the lead rope is more elastic.
Also, as shown in the video, nylon is much more elastic than dynemma. Since it is more elastic than the dyneema, the dynamic loading factor is less which is confirmed by performing the exact same drop test and seeing that the force generated is 3710lbf (16.5kN) translating to a dynamic loading factor of 21.
You may say, "well draws are made of dyneema and such and they don't break when you take a huge whipper." That is correct, in the case of a leader fall(or a top rope fall for that matter), the very elastic climbing rope stretches and lessens the dynamic loading factor and therefore the resulting force applied to the draw or top-rope anchor, this generated force is less than the rated breaking strength of the attachment device. One way to look at it is that the rope "absorbs" much of the energy generated by the falling climber as it stretches.
On another note, I like that the video shows a test with a knot in the sling. I believe the early failure of the knotted sling is due to the additional stress. Not only is there tensile stress in the line, there is an additional compressive or crushing stress generated where the knot crimps down on the line. The knot itself will absorb some energy as it tightens and decrease the dynamic loading factor, however the results show that the knotted dyneema failed at about half the load of the straight sling. I think this is proof of the stress "stack-up" if you will. The impact force was less with the knotted sling, however it failed at a lower force than the straight sling. I imagine that if the nylon were tested to failure, instead of just the 80kg mass, then the results would show that the knotted nylon sling would fail at a load less than the failure load of the straight nylon sling.
Another interesting note: Even though the dyneema slings used for the test are rated to 22kN, failures occurred at forces less than this, around 20kN. The most simple explanation is manufacturing irregularities. Not all slings are perfectly manufactured, a certain small amount will be less than the rated load(3 sigma). Also, data acquisition methods possibly.
13 Mar 2012, 11:18AM
@ Travis
What happens if you drop your draws that you use to anchor yourself to the belay, the daisy is girth hitched to your TIE-IN point so it can't be dropped?
What if you need to use said draws as a part of a rescue or retreat anchor?
On a multi-pitch sport climb in your case, if you reach the anchor first and tie in and then use up two draws for your personal anchor, what happens when the next pitch requires these two draws, are you going to give up your secondary personal anchor so the leader doesn't skip have to skip bolts?
There are too many unknowns.
The draws you are using are made of the same "non-dynamic absorbing" materials as the daisy. Also, the draws you are using to anchor yourself to a belay need to have locking biners. If they are non-locking, then you risk a gate opening at one of 4 possible points and leaving you in a dangerous situation. So you trade the lightness and simplicity of one daisy fixed to your tie in point and one locking biner for two separate draws containing two separate slings and 4 locking biners(how is this not extraneous-as you say)...you are over complicating your system and introducing more room for error.
12 Mar 2012, 6:37PM
SO the daisy can hold body weight only (a 16kN body at best), but it cannot be used as a personal anchor system to hold your personal body weight? If you follow the instructions and "DO NOT use them as part of your belay or protection system" then the primary belay anchor will take all of the dynamic load and the daisy(s) will only ever see body weight, your weight...
6 Mar 2012, 3:26AM
Hi everyone,
thanks for the good comments everyone makes. I just have one question regarding the "only clip one loop" matter. I am referring to a Daisy Chain, not a Metolius PAS here, where you can clip any loop into your carabiner (so it says) anyway. Say, if I twisted the first loop of the daisy chain, and then clip a second loop into the same carabiner, is there a way this fails and untwists? Today I tried doing what they did in the promo video with a sling and tape at home, and whatever I did it never came off. I must have always twisted it in a way that must have been right. CLearly I do not want to rely on chance, so I thought, if I double clip the first loop, could I then really clip any loop to it? I saw this mentioned in this forum before, but no one commented on that and I failed to try it out at home.
22 Mar 2011, 7:31PM
OK just a quick story as another reason NOT to tie-in with a daisy chain when at an anchor. A friend a mine was tied-in at the belay a bit to the side of the anchor (read not directly underneath the anchoring point). His foot skated off the rock where he was standing and he took a fairly mild fall (couple of cm) on his daisy chain. What happened next is pure lack of luck but still: he grabbed his daisy in order to control his fall but his daisy was clipped with a full twist in it (or maybe 2). anyway his whole hand grabbed the daisy chain but the pinky got stuck in one of the loop. Being loaded, the daisy tended to untwist and his pinky was completely cut-off in the process.
I know this sounds absolutely crazy, and it is but it is also true.
BTW the guys is probably one of the best ice climber i know and quite experienced.
Hope this enlightens some people.
Good day and be safe
21 Mar 2011, 7:45PM
I use my daisy chain all the time when multi pitch climbing. But i have the last loop clipped in double. Just clip the last loop with a locking biner then make a twist and clip the same loop again. I leave it like this always. so if i need to shorten up my daisy i can just clip in a different loop without unclipping that last loop. This way if the stitching does fail the biner is still always in the last loop.
but i still never climb up above with my daisy attached to the anchors. That's just plain stupid. But this is only a backup for me. I use the rope tied in a clove hitch around a locking biner attached to the chains for my primary. I'm just paranoid and like to have myself tied it twice always.
16 Mar 2011, 11:53PM
I think Lee hit the nail good. These techniques, especially the fifi carabiner, are not only safer, but way faster.
9 Nov 2010, 11:38AM
Thank you for making this video available to the public. I, too, have often noticed otherwise very experienced climbers belay this way. I even resort to two daisy chain link ups while rappelling to back up to the point of redundancy. Great film, maybe people will start correcting bad habits.
7 Nov 2010, 11:19AM
If there is a 50% chance of getting yourself killed with the wrong application, why is it on the shelf? If there is a 50% chance that a new car might not stop due to brake failure, would Black Diamond still drive it?
Is there a permanent, bombproof fix, like a clove or a girth, that would permanently keep the users carabiner in the chain????
30 Sep 2010, 5:47AM
This is a very interesting article about dynamic sling strength. The video is especially interesting. http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=293&ngroup=1
Before I watched this I knew slings were notgood at holding dynamic falls but I didnt realise just how small a dynamic fall would break the sling.
22 Sep 2010, 4:00AM
Very useful article. Because shownig the "magician trick" with the shortening of daisychain was too quick for me to understand, we made video where it is shown slower:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWSk6tAUNcU
21 Sep 2010, 12:42PM
I find the video and KP's advice misleading. Daisy chains are slings with sewn in pockets that can be used to clip into anchors. Doing it right. The BD daisy chains can hold 16 kN, less than a sling (22 kN), but a little more than your harness (15 kN). The stitching can hold 3 kN only, more than body weight though. Therefore you can use daisy chains for clipping the belay, just as you do with slings. Provided you don't misuse the pockets. However, both daisy chains and slings should not be used for climbing above the anchor. Because even a short free fall in a sling or a daisy chain will cause them to break as they are static. Dyneema being more static than nylon. Check the DMM video: http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=293&ngroup=1. Now, few falls from an anchor are completely free falls. There will most likely be a lot of friction between your body and the rock minimising the force on the system. But it is a good precaution never to go above the anchor when only being attached to it with a sling or a daisy chain.
18 Sep 2010, 1:15AM
Thanks, for great article.
17 Sep 2010, 2:23PM
all modern day daisys are engineered wrong................
talk to mark blanchard about the right engineering
they shouldnt fail ............. please reengineer your DAISYS bd etc
daisys are an integral part of any rock /aid system
the system you use in aid/jumaring for testing should be bomb proof.....
all production daisys are junk.........
17 Sep 2010, 2:20AM
Maybe I'm wrong but I thought that if you do a double wrap of the first pocket (put the biner in the loop, twist the dc once, clip into the same loop) then you don't have to worry about it coming undone if you were to clip a second pocket and have the stiching rip out? Hard to illustrate, sorry.
16 Sep 2010, 1:46PM
Overblown? Use gear the way it is meant to be used! There are plenty of things better and safer than a daisy chain for attaching to an anchor. Daisy chains are for aid climbing. done.
15 Sep 2010, 11:32AM
Hey @ChrisSG, I think this video shows the test data you are asking for.
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5
14 Sep 2010, 3:47PM
daisies are simply slings with 2kn rated pockets inside … ignore those and its a full strength sling … lol
as long as you clip ONE of the pockets you’re fine
if you do take a static fall on something better it be a nylon daisy because
1. its nylon
2. if you didnt clip the last pocket … all the pocket in between will blow lessening the shock
just use the rope to tie in on multi ... for cleaning the daisy is fine as long as you clip ONE pocket with EACH bine
13 Sep 2010, 11:21PM
While the statement to never anchor yourself at all with a DC due to lack of dynamism is indeed overblown (as other commentors have stated, 3 feet of dynamic rope, two quick draws, or standard slings are all just as static), I had never before considered the possibility of becoming completely unclipped when short-clipping. I usually use full length slings myself, but my partner uses her DC most often, however when clipped short she usually only clips the short loop, and not the end one.
Robert: your practice sounds sound to me. It should be very difficult (read: impossible) for you to shock load your anchor when clipped in so short as to break either a well-tied sling or a biner. Indeed, the system isn't redundant as you've described; if you want it to be, take two slings and two biners and clip in as you did with one (or into separate bolts at the anchors - you will likely need to do this often anyway if there isn't a single, central link which connects both anchor bolts and you don't feel like being clipped in, ropeless, to just one bolt in the rock as you thread the rope). To not make the sling(s) so thick/short/knotted, consider just girth-hitching it beside your belay loop, through both the top and bottom loops that your belay loop hooks into (unless your guide specifically advised against the girth hitch due to weakening the sling, and you'd like to avoid that, too).
And as Robert has demonstrated, his guide has essentially taught him to clip in to the anchor with a dasiy chain - his just has all the 3kN bar-tacking removed already.
Thanks for the insight Kolin! Looking forward to reading your response.
13 Sep 2010, 11:43AM
Go with the Sterling Chain Reactor: http://www.sterlingrope.com/product/155018/Chain/_/Chain_Reactors
While the Metolius PAS is an option, it's not the best. The PAS is made of dyneema which under force is much weaker than nylon. The Chain Reactor by Sterling is made of nylon which allows for some give in the system but dyneema will snap under a factor 2 fall. Tests have shown that the Metolius PAS breaks during a factor 2 fall while the Sterling Chain Reactor can withstand 3 factor 2 falls before breaking!
13 Sep 2010, 9:54AM
Hmm... a bit overblown indeed. Don't clip two pockets, definitely. Never use as part of an anchor system, disagree. Unless someone has test data where they managed to get a 75kilo human to generate more than 16kN from "foot skating off a belay ledge" onto static tether system (single-clipped daisy or runners, why would it matter?). Where's the data?
Also, I dunno but in many aid climbing "falls", in practice, the rope is a backup to daisies, especially with a two-daisy progression system (i.e. daisy attached to preceding piece, new piece fails, fall onto earlier piece) -- that is, the daisy is weighted well before the rope, given the slack that's generally in the system. These are far more violent impacts than you could generate by yourself at a ledge.
12 Sep 2010, 8:32PM
Just was wondering around looking for a new pack and stumbled on the video. Greatly appreciate spreading good knowledge to the masses. It greatly makes me reconsider the other company that I was going to buy a pack from.
Regardless Keep the safety vids coming because this sport is only going to continue to grow.
Thank you very much and hopefully this perfect example will save someone from making these mistakes.
12 Sep 2010, 6:38PM
I use a daisy the same way, for the same reasons, as Andrew Vit
12 Sep 2010, 5:18PM
Ok so recently i lead a route and got to the chains. Clipped two of my own draws in and cliped my rope so atleast i was safe. Then i began the task of threading the anchors.
I did not have a pas or a daisy chain. I have a 48 inch nylon sling.
Before i left the ground as i was tought from a guide, i had ran the sling through my belay loop so it was in half. Took both halves and tied an overhand knot in it tieing both halves together making a massively thick sling that was now rather short and stuck a locking beiner at the end through both strands and clipped that to a gear loop. I took my sling and clipped myself direct to the anchor and yelled sraight in. Clove hitched my rope to a draw on a gear loop and untied, threaded and retied. double checked, and dropped my clove hitch, and removed my draws. Finally after a last check called to my belayer, back on you. Felt the rope take in and removed my locker that was on the anchor that had me strait in. If i could of reached the anchors with draws from my belay loop i would have used draws to go strait in. But im fairly short and my draws are standard 12cm and most of the time getting them from waist level to a set of chains at chest level is tuff. However in this case i used the sling and a locker. Was this correct or dangerous? One thing i did not like was that technically it was not redundant. Should the sling or the locking beiner fail i would have fallen. I am considering a PAS. Does any one have any comments for this for a newer climber.
12 Sep 2010, 1:39PM
totally agree w A Vit n Nino. daisy chains can be pretty handy. a dc and a clove hitch on the rope makes a fast and adjustable 2 point anchor.
disagree w 50% chance of blowing out depending how you clip. if theres no twist you could blow out. 1 twist, nope, 2...no, 3... no... probs depend on how twisted you might tend to be.
totally disagree w travis who seems to use dcs as an indicator of stupidity, if you need to put others down bc they dont do things your way, it probably indicates more about your issues n ego than anything bout them.
sure this caveat needs to be put out there but the whole 'dont even use these because maybe this could happen' is almost as bad as 'dont climb/ski/whatevs cuz maybe something will go wrong and you'll be hurt/dead/whatevs' when really all you need to do is climb smart, live smart, have fun, good luk n peas
12 Sep 2010, 11:47AM
my daisys r bomber. they say 27kn on the tag. and i do clip them between my legs like a thong when its time to bust some free moves, u guys can laugh but truth is u r not there. u r playing video games or spraying at the gym! if i clove hitch to the powerpoint with a foot of my climbing line i do not consider that a dynamic system, nor should u! the ONLY time i am only clipped in with my daisys is while doing multi pitch raps. i get to the lower anchor, clip into two seperate bomber(est) points with lockers and call OFF PULL GREEN! then my bud yells PULL GREEN!! when she gets to my anchor she clips directly to my lockers.. we thred and pull green and she gets on rappel. when she gets to the lower anchor she does the same except yells OFF PULL RED!!! while belaying i am always tied into the powerpoind with by climb line duh?? however on long grade VI nailups, my dasies are also in the system to help move about the system....if u get the right set of dasies and dont double clip the loops, u should feel good about them they r bomber!
10 Sep 2010, 2:55PM
I agree with Andrew Vit above. I've been climbing since 1970's (yes I'm just over 50) and using a DC is just like using a runner, load equalizer, or a quick-draw at a belay -- none are meant to absorb. Even clove-hitching with the rope to the anchor will not absorb that much load, as it is only 3 ft of rope at most.
The answer is to take care not to shock load your anchor, period. Never climb above an anchor where you are hitched to with slings, because if you fall you will shock load it and, if using a DC, clip in properly as mentioned above.
10 Sep 2010, 10:32AM
BRAVO.
Safer alternative: quickdraws.
Though I'd rather think of daisy chains as a dangerous alternative to quickdraws rather than quickdraws as a safer alternative to daisy chains, if you get my drift.
10 Sep 2010, 9:53AM
To all the people who are posting comments about ways they use a daisy chain to anchor themselves: are you all idiots? How can KP make it any clearer that you DO NOT NEED A DAISY CHAIN for freeclimbing EVER. Not only is it dangerous, it is just stupid and extraneous. Clovehitch in with the rope on multipitch routes and use a couple of quickdraws at a sport anchor and thread. Duh. Everytime I see some guy with a daisy chain on their harness I have to laugh, especially if they have it clipped through their crotch, thong style.
10 Sep 2010, 8:29AM
two answers tackling this issue.
http://www.singingrock.com/GoodsDetail_LS.asp?nDepartmentID=587&nGoodsID=495&nLanguageID=2
http://www.grivel.com/products/rock/accessories/56-Daisy+chain
9 Sep 2010, 7:40PM
I saw this vid and went out the next day and got a PAS (Metolius). Held a 30 whipper on the next trip out. Crazy stuff indeed.
9 Sep 2010, 11:23AM
I know Ehow.com is no climbing website, but here is an article that describes how to anchor yourself while cleaning a sport anchor.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2113459_top-anchors-sport-climbing-route.html
8 Sep 2010, 10:07PM
Muchas Gracias por la informacion ¡esto te salva la vida¡
8 Sep 2010, 1:56PM
What is the proper way to clean a sport route "belay station" without the cleaner "aiding" themselves to the fixed anchors while thread the rope through the chains? Is the professional method overly complex? The method couldn't have been described in less than a tomb? Please complete the rant with an explanation or link to the best method for cleaning a sport route belay station. We all know the vast majority of BD's daisy chains aren't sold for aid climbing.
8 Sep 2010, 8:09AM
If you really need to clip in without your climbing rope(accessing a top rope anchor) use a piece a dynamic rope (8mm) to build your self a dynamic lanyard attached to the tie-in point of your harness.
It's cheap and easy do build. Also, the knots of the lanyard will absord an amount of the energy in case of a fall.
8 Sep 2010, 1:33AM
There are some very important reminders here about the problems & limitations with daisies, but I think the admonishment to "ONLY" use a daisy for aid climbing and "NEVER" use it to connect yourself to an anchor are really overblown. I still consider a daisy to be a safe tool for a temporary or secondary personal anchor connection, when used correctly.
If you use a daisy PROPERLY to secure yourself to a sport anchor (in other words, you're mindful to clip only one pocket and have it adjusted where it supports your weight so you don't shock load it), there's really no difference between that and a sewn sling, or some other purpose-designed device such as the Metolius PAS. All of these are full-strength static webbing with the same potential for shock-load.
When trad climbing, I always use the rope as my primary attachment, but I still use the daisy as a secondary anchor for convenience & speed. I clip it into the first bomber pieces (or bolt) as soon as I arrive at the station so I can call "off belay" and start building the main power point of the anchor which I rope into. When I break down the anchor I do it in reverse, and I can stay attached to the last 1 or 2 bomber pieces using the daisy while I start cleaning everything else. Then I can be ready to climb as soon as I hear "on belay".
All of these strength ratings are several times body weight. It shouldn't be a concern when used as intended; that is, "to support body weight only":
BD Daisy Strength: 16 kN (3597 lbf).
Metolius PAS Strength: 18 kN (4046 lbf).
Camp Dyneema Daisy Chain: 22 kN.
Sewn Nylon Runner: 22 kN.
I'd really like to hear more thoughts on this: Why should it be dangerous when used correctly? What's your safer alternative: do you use something else that works around the inherent problem of shock-loading?
7 Sep 2010, 8:24PM
Yes, a very good article and clears up a lot for some people. I really like the response post on using a girth or clove hitch to avoid the possible loss of an anchor system. I personally use a PAS and back it up with a daisy, or strictly use a daisy to move from one anchor point to the other without fully coming out of the system, but I never belay with a daisy as the anchor system.
7 Sep 2010, 3:01PM
"Don't know how to thread sport anchors without clipping in with a daisy chain?"
Well, one could use a sling or PAS, but the same caveats about shock loading still apply, no?
The potential hazards of clipping two loops in the daisy are eliminated by girth-hitching the daisy to the clipping carabiner. Another solution is to use a second carabiner as suggested, but it's quicker and easier if the second biner is attached to one's belay loop and used in a similar way to a fifi hook.
7 Sep 2010, 12:05PM
Thanks for re-emphasizing this Kolin.
7 Sep 2010, 11:41AM
Has all the bar tacking in a daisy weakened the nylon so that it is weaker than a standard runner? Is the stitching in the main loop weaker than a standard runner?
7 Sep 2010, 10:49AM
GREAT ARTICLE!!! Thank you very much!!!!
7 Sep 2010, 10:12AM
Are daisies full strength when clipped end to end, without using the pockets?