Build My Own FeedOFF-PISTE IN LA GRAVE: Ptor Spricenieks on a two-day backcountry ski trip into France’s National Parc des Ecrins.
It was a classic La Grave day. By the time we had coffees at Lionel’s Bar and passed by the BD Test center downtown, the crack of noon loomed on the horizon. But a wise man once told me that there’s always time for a second cup and so we let the day warm up a bit more while having another at the 3200 top station restaurant. Today we’d take every opportunity to muster the best out of “blown-out” January backcountry conditions. Our objective of a night in the Refuge Promontoire and a run down Les Enfetchores was definitely going to be pending on what we’d find out there. This was also the first test of my reconstructed knee. It was my return to the steeps, complete with variable conditions and the full gear that you need here in La Grave on the back. 
The first leg of our itinerary, skinning up to the Col de Girose from the La Grave top station, demanded intermittent bootpacking making the variability of snow quality immediately apparent. Topping out, the view of the jagged peaks of the Parc des Ecrins momentarily distracted us from incertitude. With no reports of a previous party down it this season, the Couloir Girose and it’s mysterious condition awaited us. From the entrance, just enough sastrugified powder allowed for a few nice turns. Soon the couloir became firm and our sloth had paid off as the rest of the sun warmed 50-degree shaft dropped us off on the Glacier de la Selle in a relatively forgiving manner.
By the time we reached our next crux, the Breche du Rateau, afternoon colors lit up the massive amphitheatre we were in. The Breche is a short steep climb to gain the 800-meter descent and valley on the other side. With the rock step crux still not filled in and our first few steps upward sinking into waist deep unconsolidated snow, the 50 meters might as well have been 500. The winds have been particularly particular and not everything is in its familiar customary condition. With our short winter day already consumed, we humbly opted for Plan B as the tones of the evening light deepened. This wasn’t the first time I’ve turned back from here.
There was plenty to ski in this valley and no need to epic to the Promontoire in the dark. Instead, we would shovel snow in the dark, being the first to visit the Refuge de la Selle this winter. We dug away at the door, working for our accommodation while reflecting on the day’s efforts. As glorious as are the champagne powder days, so too are the ones where you get lured out into challenging conditions. Once again, engaging a “less than ideal” scenario made the mountains feel bigger and would ultimately makes us feel stronger. With my leg not yet 100%, I still felt delicate but I could deal and I felt deep contentment to be out there again. This day I realized how strong the mountains had made me before and that with their help, I could be there again.
Even the dozen wool blankets we each slept under couldn’t smother the anticipation of another blue-sky day. Today we knew that there was no rush. A line I had spotted in condition the other week (yet another something I’ve always wanted to ski in this ski-mountaineering paradise) still looked good. It would more than likely transform into January corn, a specialty of the region. Sure enough, the afternoon sun did its work. Entering, it rolled off the edge of the glacier and onto a smooth apron. Steeper than it initially appeared, the warm surface would slide with the ski, which made it difficult to set an edge. The mountains remained unrelenting all the way down to the ultra-quaint village of St. Christophe. Yet another new run for myself in these mountains of infinite options. Something is always in condition. Jib-sliding sideways down frozen alleyway snow to Marie Claude’s La Cordee for après ski beers couldn’t have ended the day any more classically. I love this place...
A former ski racer from Canada, Ptor Spricenieks has been skiing around the world since he was three. He currently lives in La Grave, France where he spends all winter exploring and skiing the mountains that surround him.
United States / English 
6 Aug 2009, 5:47PM
My siz year just watch that sick video, and now he knows what he wants to be in his life, very kool...
5 Aug 2009, 10:28PM
...just surfin the BD site looking into new climbing gear when I got caught up in some armchair adventuring in the journals. Really cool to have the slick videos to supplement the stories...what an amazing place...
5 Aug 2009, 8:24PM
Nice trip!
And sweet video.
2 Aug 2009, 10:39AM
Photos by Yves Garneau