Mike Libecki

USA

Mike Libecki closes all of his correspondences with the words “Pursue Passion––Why Ration Passion—Dream Big… and Live Those Dreams—The Time is Now.” This is exactly how he lives his life. He lives with utter optimism, organic enthusiasm and appreciation, after all, death and/or old age is coming, we must live sweet! Mike was born near the heart of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California where he grew up hunting, fishing and camping with his family, as well as excelling in speed mathematics from grammar school through high school. His childhood life planted the seed for his obsession with an utterly adventurous lifestyle.

Now in his adult life, Mike spends most of his time as a father to his angel-daughter Lilliana, and traveling to the most remote, exotic and untouched locations on the planet to pursue his passion of big wall and alpine first ascents, traverses and other offbeat adventures, many of them completely alone to absolute virgin Earth. Libecki has been on expeditions and established multiple first ascents in such areas as Africa, Baffin Island, Greenland, China, Madagascar, Kyrgysztan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Papua New Guinea, Russia, Venezuela, and Antarctica on over 30 expeditions. He made the first traverse across the Taklamakan Desert in Western China, also known as the “Sea of Death” by the local people. He’s spent months at a time soloing first ascents in Greenland, Baffin Island, Antarctica, Africa, Papua New Guinea and China. He and a partner spent 8o days completing a major ski and big wall climbing expedition in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. He is currently reconnoitering such virgin lands such as Franz Josef Land, Russia, restricted Africa, Afghanistan and remote islands in the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, of course some other areas are top secret at the moment due to government regulations.

When Mike is not exploring and photographing the ends of the Earth, he is a full time father. You can also find him presenting one of his uniquely entertaining multimedia presentations about his adventures year-round. Mike’s favorite part of the gift of ultimate reality called life is being a father. You will often see many colors on his freshly painted toe and finger nails, he is an expert at playing princesses and dress-ups, attends piano, and swimming lessons and is his daughter’s soccer coach. Libecki just won ‘Father of the Year Award’ from his daughter’s school. He keeps his life running full-circle with other passions such as photography, videography, writing, public speaking, product design and testing, and believing in his dreams (not 99%, 100% minimum). Mike lives near the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah with his daughter, dog, cats, pot-belly pig and rabbits.

Birthday? February 16th 1973. Thirty six years old, going on 24 physically, who knows mentally… sometimes 36, sometimes 12, sometimes 68.

Year you first started climbing? I started climbing when I was 18, after seeing some people in Yosemite and going climbing with a friend at the time, I went to the local climbing shop in Clovis, California (near Yosemite) where I grew up, bought stuff to take my friends toproping at some nearby cliffs. We knew nothing about safety and knots, but climbed hard. Looking back, we really could have f’ed ourselves up. Soon I moved to Yosemite and became a belay slave/apprentice. The enthusiasm and addiction continues to grow this very day for the vertical reality.

Three climbing/skiing achievements you are most proud of?

• Solo first ascent/expedition, Windmill Spire, Queen Maud Land, Antarctica.


• Solo first ascent/expedition, Ship’s Prow, Scott Island, Baffin Island.


• Solo first ascent/expedition, Viking’s Shield, East Greenland.

Memory/story of the first time you ever went climbing? One of my first wall routes was Mescalito on El Cap. Got totally worked. It was April, a lot of snow on top of El Cap still. First, everyday as it warmed up about 4 in the afternoon, the snow started melting into waterfalls, and yes, believe it or not, these waterfalls nail Mescalito. We had to get in our portaledge everyday in the late afternoon, sun shining, perfect weather, yet waterfalls hammered us three days in a row. Then, of course, a huge storm came in. We watched the valley floor turn into a lake. People were getting rescued off of El Cap, the helicopter from SAR flew up to us. We denied the rescue of course. Inches of water in the portaledge… everything absolutely soaked. We planned for seven days and topped out on our 15th day! I had to lead every pitch—my partner was less experienced than me and he followed every pitch. Of course we ran out of food, a couple mouthfuls a day (if that) for five days. I lost around 15 pounds. It was one of the best training sessions of my life. Love those moments of utter learning…

Favorite climbing area and why? If it is remote, virgin or close to it, I am absolutely full with enthusiasm to go there. Hot, cold, get there by camels, boat, plane, doesn’t matter—especially if there are amazing people/culture. I would have to say Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, though Greenland, Baffin Island, China, and Kyrgyzstan are right there… well Papua New Guinea, wait, Venezuela, or hold on, Madagascar, that is a hard one, so many unique aspects about every place.

Best climbing experience? First, the best experience having to do with climbing is every time I get home from an expedition and see my daughter. Nothing better than that. Second, all of my solo trips. Getting worked by rock fall or whippers on solo trips, just me, myself and I to experience the most utter fear, there is something special about that. Third, topping out in China and Kyrgyzstan with my brother.

Worst climbing experience? Missing my daughter while on climbing expeditions. Rock fall. Needing multiple sessions of antibiotics from random food like goat heads/eyeballs, ox penis, etc. Good for the memories though.

What's your dream trip? Where? With who? Sorry, can’t give that info out. There’s top secret virgin walls all over the world still. Nice try though. I have 12 expeditions planned that are supposedly home to some sweet virgin stone. Good evidence, too. Sometimes it’s like Sherlock Holmes. I do have some big solo plans in the future, both exciting and frightening at the same time. Also, I do dream of traveling the world with my daughter pretty soon as soon as she is old enough to grasp and understand travel to foreign lands. That is my true dream, climbing or not, to travel the world with my daughter and share global education for real with her.

Guilty pleasure? No guilt in life… no regrets. If I had to choose something that might define a guilty pleasure in society, I eat at least 3 or 4 (if not more) pints of Ben and Jerrys/Haagen Dazs a week. It’s an  easy way to add several thousand calories to the training regimen.

BD gear you use every time you go climbing? Cams, Nuts, Biners, Harness, Daisies, Aiders, Fifi Hook, G-String Underwear, Ascenders, Portaledge, Haul Bags, Blow Up Dolls, Helmet, Slings, Belay Device, Pitons, Sex Toys, Sweet Energy from the BD Crew.

Something that annoys you while climbing? Bolts next to cracks. Unsafe behavior. Falling rock.

What/who inspires you in climbing? My daughter inspires me everyday for life, I learn from her daily. Bob Marley. Shinichi Sakamoto. Mom. The fact that death and or old age is coming, so we must live sweet! Pursue passion, why ration passion?

Favorite après-climb meal? Sushi. Fresh made organic juice of any kind. Ice cream.

Favorite climbing flick? Odworot.

What's in your iPod? Of course Bluegrass, Bob Marley and Live Grateful Dead. Hannah Montana courtesy of my daughter. I could win a contest for the Dad that can sing all of the Hannah Montana/Miley Cyrus songs.

Strangest place you've ever woken up? Papua New Guinea, because I woke up to a six-inch spider (not tarantula) staring into my eyes through its glistening balls-of-seeing, half inch fangs ready to sink into my cheek, still gives me the chills. Venezuela, because of the all the ticks stuck to my scrotum and penis!

Strangest person you've ever woken up with? Drew Barrymore.

Three things you'd never roadtrip without? I have two necklaces, one has been on my neck for over 15 years without taking it off, the other has been on my neck for over 5 years without taking it off. The first is one my mom gave me of St. Michael. She told me I wouldn’t die in the wilderness with it on. So far so good. The other is a little girl figurine that is my daughter. She is always with me everywhere I go. I recently added a new piece on the cord around my neck that never comes off: it is a claw/toe nail from my dog Talus that tragically died two years ago. All three of these stay with me at all times, 24-7. They never, ever come off. Also, of course, on expeditions specifically, the current Chinese New Year/Zodiac mask (dragon, snake, rabbit, ox, etc.) for the summits! Superstitions? None. Mathematics rule my life.

What's your dream job? Living it now. Being a dad. Pursuer of Passion. Asker of the question Why Ration Passion? Dreamer of Big Dreams and Climbing Those Dreams, Liver of Life in the Moment of Now. Knower of the reality: Death and/or Old Age is Coming and we MUST LIVE SWEET! Soloist, Big Wall Climber, Expedition Enthusiast, Explorer, Writer, Photographer, Videographer, Amazing and Dedicated Father. Embracer of enthusiasm and appreciation daily.

How are you training when you are not climbing/skiing? Being a fulltime dad. Washing dishes. Yard work. Sleep. Trapeze. My Harley-Davidson Fatboy. Keeping up with my daughter. Swimming. Bagging peaks with my dogs. Meditation. Searching for the path to enlightenment. Fresh made juice daily. Being a soccer coach. Jumping jacks. Typing. Dancing. Singing. Making love. Levitation.

If you could steal one thing and not get caught, what would it be? A shit load of money, but not for me—for all the amazing people I have met around the world, my family, my friends, and help them all. I would keep none.

If you could have dinner with three people (dead or alive) who would they be? Bob Marley. Ray Kurzweil. Jesus Christ.

Which would you prefer: power of flight or invisibility? Invisibility.

Do you have any tattoos or piercings? Not yet. I do want to get some very sentimental tattoos.