| 2003
Mugs Stump Award Winners:
Geisler/Withers/Edgar—North
Ridge of Shingu Charpu
 Pakistan:
A never before conceived plan—6000 ft, 3 partners,
2 days
Shjingu
Charpa is a peak situated in the Hushe region of northern
Pakistan, near the renowned peaks of K2 and Masherbrum. While
not an 8000m peak like its neighbours, Shjingu Charpa bears
a very dramatic 6000ft technical north ridge, leading directly
to the summit. A Korean team and an American team have attempted
this objective, both having found the ridge too logistically
complex to carry sufficient water for an attempt with fixed
ropes.
N.
Face Masherbrum
While
this objective is significantly long and committing, we intend
to move quickly and ascend in 2 to 3 days, climbing through
the night without stopping. We hope that by leaving behind
sleeping gear, and paring down all equipment to the absolute
minimum, we can ascend quick enough to reach the summit and
descend safely. We have fine-tuned this approach in the big
wall venues of the Bugaboos, BC, and Yosemite, California.
An alpine style (fast and light) approach can certainly be
the most enjoyable way to climb, but to attempt a route that
requires this style as the only road to success is even more
inspiring. This venture would certainly test our abilities
as individuals, but we believe that working together will
bring us success. The Nangma valley in Pakistan has only recently
gained attention among climbers. As Shjingu Charpa is below
6000m (not requiring permits), we do not need to engage in
an expedition approach, and this supports our interest in
providing a minimal impact on our surrounding environment.
We hope to encourage others to proceed in the same manner,
appreciating the mountain landscape, and maintaining resources
for the enjoyment of others to follow.
We
are motivated as a team of two close friends to push our own
boundaries, both mental and physical in climbing. Embarking
on this objective is the next logical step for us to pursue
the ideals of the climbing community in moving light and efficiently
in the mountains. While the summit and this particular route
are our objective, this manner of climbing is perhaps better
defined as our goal. It was a style that we were able to explore
last summer in the Bugaboos on the South face of South Howser
tower’s Catalonian route and the Minaret’s Italian
Pillar. We may have to forgo the summit or finishing the climb
because we have chosen to approach the ridge in such a committing
style.
We
have both used fixed ropes and big wall techniques in the
past, and believe that we can leave less of an impact on our
surroundings, as well as have a more memorable experience,
if we forgo those elements that offer more certainty of success.
However, we hope that in this case we have chosen the best
option to achieve success.
While
this objective is significantly long and committing, we hope
to move quickly and ascend in 2 to 3 days. We hope to find
freeclimbing variations around any small walls that would
otherwise require aid climbing techniques. We also have significant
experience in speed-aid tactics, if need be, so we hope not
to be slowed significantly.
Proceeding
in such a committing style will require perfect weather, as
we will not be able to carry sufficient protection against
a severe storm (ie. no long-term bivy gear). However, we believe
that this is the method most appropriate for this objective.
An alpine style (fast and light) approach can certainly be
the most enjoyable way to climb, but to attempt a route that
requires this as the only road to success is even more exciting.
We believe this to be in line with the values central to the
Mugs Stump Award.
We
hope to inspire others to engage in a similar light approach
to the mountains, ultimately leaving less of an impact on
our surroundings as we travel and enjoy the mountain environment.
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