Gear Scene About BD

Age:
Years Climbing:
Achievements:
Favorite Areas:
30
12

First Australian female to boulder V12

 

Grampians in Victoria for bouldering. Blue Mountains in NSW for roped climbing.

20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I spent about 7-8 years climbing before I started to become interested in bouldering. My body type is naturally suited to climbing, so bouldering provided more of a challenge physically for me. I’m not naturally strong, so power is something that I have to work very hard for—I love the rewards of finally sending a problem that at first felt impossible, or sticking that move for the first time…

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Probably sending Black Magic (V8) at Crumbly (Sydney, NSW). I’d done plenty of V8s the previous year and this one had eluded me. It’s a roof problem and as such not something I was particularly good at. After a few months of training during the following season, I went back to it and sent it on my first day back on rock. What I’d trained during that time opened a lot more problems up to me.

Describe a memorable climbing experience:
I’d have to say, without a doubt, sending Forced Entry (V12). I’d seen the problem two years previously and thought: that looks possible for me. In September 2006 I spent several days of our annual Grampians pilgrimage working on the moves and by the end of the trip was ready to start having shots. The problem has a mono pocket in it and is on a 45 degree wall—by the end of the trip I’d torn up the mono finger pretty badly and in the end I just couldn’t take the pain of having another shot. We went home, I waited for my finger to heal and did some very specific crimp training that I knew would help me and went back for a special five-day fly-in trip in October. I sent the problem on the second day of the trip and I couldn’t stop smiling for the rest of the week!

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Waiting for my skin to grow back.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Work your weaknesses! It’s hard, it hurts but it’s worth it.

Who or what inspires you?
Anyone who brings motivation and energy to the cliff.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
Considering 5:10 was The Big One back in the 70s, with equipment and training tools continually improving I think we have a long way to go. Specifically for women, I see the improvement that Australian women have made in the past 4-5 years and we’re starting to close the gap more consistently on the men. Now that’s something to aim for!

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
Well, it sounds hard… I’ll let you know when I try one.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue:
Well, I don’t believe in pad stacking to start an undercling problem…

Do you have any vices and what are they?
Men in uniform?

Any near death experiences?
Only on the taxi ride to Ao Nang in Thailand. How it is that travel insurance won’t cover you for roped sport climbing but will cover that?!?!

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I’m pretty partial to the climbing history of back when I was a newcomer. I used to read and re-read all the climbing mags and so people like Wolfgang Gullich, JB Tribout and Stefan Glowacz are my childhood heroes I guess. I still remember the big poster I had of Wolfgang doing Wall Street in his white polka-dot very, very tight tights.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Right now: I’m starting back on power-endurance training for the upcoming bouldering season. I have quite a few problems I’d like to send in the upcoming years—some are more ambitious than others, but hey, a girl’s gotta dream…

  • Cave Woman V12
  • Sushi Train V8
  • Groove Terminator V10
  • Scrawny & Horny V9
  • Pissy Missy V9
  • Ammagamma V12

And when I put a rope on:

  • Frosty 29
  • Clam Chowder 28
  • Self Portrait 29
  • Vanity Case 28
  • Demoraliser 28
  • Decoadfier 28
  • Alpha Leather 32

 

 

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