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20
Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I
spent about 7-8 years climbing before I started to
become interested in bouldering. My body type is
naturally suited to climbing, so bouldering provided
more of a challenge physically for me. I’m
not naturally strong, so power is something that
I have to work very hard for—I love the rewards of
finally sending a problem that at first felt impossible,
or sticking that move for the first time…
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment
for you?
Probably sending Black Magic (V8)
at Crumbly (Sydney, NSW). I’d done plenty
of V8s the previous year and this one had eluded
me. It’s a roof problem and as such not something
I was particularly good at. After a few months
of training during the following season, I went
back to it and sent it on my first day back on
rock. What I’d trained during that
time opened a lot more problems up to me.
Describe a memorable climbing experience:
I’d
have to say, without a doubt, sending Forced Entry
(V12). I’d seen the problem two years previously
and thought: that looks possible for me. In September
2006 I spent several days of our annual Grampians
pilgrimage working on the moves and by the end of
the trip was ready to start having shots. The problem
has a mono pocket in it and is on a 45 degree wall—by
the end of the trip I’d torn up the mono finger
pretty badly and in the end I just couldn’t
take the pain of having another shot. We went home,
I waited for my finger to heal and did some very
specific crimp training that I knew would help me
and went back for a special five-day fly-in trip
in October. I sent the problem on the second day
of the trip and I couldn’t stop smiling for
the rest of the week!
What
are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Waiting
for my skin to grow back.
Any
training advice or suggestions?
Work your weaknesses! It’s hard,
it hurts but it’s worth it.
Who
or what inspires you?
Anyone who brings motivation
and energy to the cliff.
How
do you see climbing evolving in the next five
years?
Considering 5:10 was The Big One back
in the 70s, with equipment and training tools
continually improving I think we have a long way
to go. Specifically for women, I see the improvement
that Australian women have made in the past 4-5
years and we’re starting to close the gap
more consistently on the men. Now that’s
something to aim for!
What
do you think about the 5.15 grade?
Well, it sounds
hard… I’ll let you know when
I try one.
Care
to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw
on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes,
chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue:
Well, I don’t believe in pad stacking
to start an undercling problem…
Do
you have any vices and what are they?
Men in
uniform?
Any
near death experiences?
Only on the taxi ride
to Ao Nang in Thailand. How it is that travel
insurance won’t cover you
for roped sport climbing but will cover that?!?!
Are
you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I’m
pretty partial to the climbing history of back when
I was a newcomer. I used to read and re-read all
the climbing mags and so people like Wolfgang Gullich,
JB Tribout and Stefan Glowacz are my childhood heroes
I guess. I still remember the big poster I had of
Wolfgang doing Wall Street in his white polka-dot
very, very tight tights.
What
are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Right
now: I’m starting back on power-endurance training
for the upcoming bouldering season. I have quite
a few problems I’d like to send in the upcoming
years—some are more ambitious than others,
but hey, a girl’s gotta dream…
- Cave Woman V12
- Sushi Train V8
- Groove Terminator V10
- Scrawny & Horny
V9
- Pissy Missy V9
- Ammagamma V12
And
when I put a rope on:
- Frosty 29
- Clam Chowder 28
- Self Portrait 29
- Vanity Case 28
- Demoraliser 28
- Decoadfier 28
- Alpha Leather 32
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