20 Questions
Describe your climbing background?
I learned to climb near Arcata on Moonstone beach while I was working my way to a B.A. in English at Humboldt State University. Four years of school convinced me I wasn't cut out for the mainstream, and after graduation I moved into my truck and split my time between Joshua Tree and Yosemite, studying the finer aspects of traditional climbing, and groveling.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
My big breakthrough moments were on relatively easy climbs early on in my climbing life when everything was exciting and new, like my first 5.10, my first multi-pitch on Fairview Dome, and my first time up El Cap in a Day. Highlights of my more "advanced" years include the speed record of the Shield, The first free ascent of The Uncertainty Principle on The Sentinel, my first alpine expedition to Baffin Island to climb Mount Asgard, and more recently freeing El Cap in a day, establishing new 5.13s in Indian Creek, and tagging proud new first ascents in Alaska and Pakistan.

What do you do when your not climbing?
I read, write, play and produce music on the computer, paint, make movies, slack line, mountain bike, hang-out with friends, and generally do my best to make the most out of life!

Any training advice or suggestions?
My good friend the late great Jose used to say "The Universe Will Train You," and as cosmic and hippy dippy as that sounds I've found it to be true. I think in the end, being passionate and psyched on what you are doing is more important than being the strongest person out there, there is always going to be someone stronger. For me, mountain biking has really helped me to be more fit and ready to drop the clutch, and slacklining has helped my focus and balance.

Who or what inspires you?
THe beauty of nature is where I get my inspiration. Nature is the greatest artist and we are lucky to get to play on her sculptures. As far as inspiring people, Peter Croft was always my hero, and I give much respect to Tommy Caldwell, and more recently am really impressed by Alex Honnold.

Any thing that really irks you in the mountains?
More than a week of badweather in a row. Running out of food! One thing that really kills me is when climbers leave their trash and crap all over basecamp or a beautiful climb...they should be strung up by their toes and flogged with a five camalot.

What's playing in your stereo/iPod/head right now?
Buck 65, Doctor Octogon, Atmosphere, Tupac, RJD2, Thievery Corporation, and a bunch of my own music!

What book are you reading right now or read that you liked?
A New Earth by Eckhart Tolle. My mom just gave it to me with the with a note that said, "Don't be put off by Oprah, this is a good book."

Seinfeld or Simpsons?
That's a hard one, but I'll say Simpsons for the Great Social commentary and entertainment, but right now I have to give a shout out to Robot Chicken as the most hilarious thing ever!

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Have more fun, climb harder, and help others out however I can to do the same. I'd mention projects, but that would only jinx them, and I could tell you about first ascent ideas, but then I'd have to kill you!

Any causes that you feel very strongly about?
Khumbu Climbing School, Any cause that supports Clean Water and Education in developing countries. Any cause that promotes a cleaner healthier environment and acknowledges and seeks to halt Global Warming. Check out thestoryofstuff.com for a great analysis of our consumption based societ!

Anyone that you would like to give a shout out to?
My Best friends and Climbing Partners, Renan Ozturk, Sean Leary, Jake Whittaker, Katie Brown, and Lucho Rivera. And respect to the ultimate dirtbag Chongo, check out chongonation.com, and big thanks to Todd Gordon for the legendary Gordon Ranch where I lived for free for several years, you guys helped me live the dream!!!

Favorite piece of BD equipment and why?
Everything is genuinely top notch, but the camalots are invaluable, and the new O.Z. biner is the holy grail of carabiners, I would marry that biner!!!

Favorite piece of non-BD equipment and why?
The North Face triumph anorak, the lightest rainproof layer ever!! Oh yeah and my Macintosh laptop and desktop, Macs rule!!

Final thoughts?
Always do your best, be nice, and have fun!!