20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
Started out as a wanna-be alpinist. I was really psyched on mixed climbing, and behaved like one of those guys for whom everything they do is training for “something huge”. I also went to the Creek a lot, and did some sport climbing, but always bouldered, mostly because I couldn't stop climbing and I couldn't always find a partner. Later I heard about this Native American, a schoolteacher, who had climbed all these impossible-looking problems. He was a Ninja who climbed by headlamp, usually alone with no pad. This solitary ghost-legend became my idol, and I tried hard to learn as much as I could from his problems all over Durango. I was really motivated to discover new areas that he hadn't yet climbed out. Years later, after I'd done all of his problems and many more, I met him casually bouldering at a local area. Having never met before, we already knew each other’s names, like in some Kung-Fu story. Pretty cool, I felt like I could finally turn in all my homework and get my degree. Having developed a pretty loner-style and focus when climbing, I’m now learning to climb with other folks, to tap into external energy and let a group vibe get me motivated. It's crazy. Climbers are crazy.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
There have been many enlightening experiences over the years, but my trip to Fontainebleau in 2004 was a big one. An old photo of Fred Nicole on the first ascent of Karma really inspired me to get out and climb hard. I really learned to try on that problem— really try. It's harder than most people think. On one of those golden days, and when about 20 people were hollering at me in four different languages, I tried hard. I kind of hung out on the jug for a while, really digging the people, the place, the problem. It was a REAL GOAL that I had realized and I didn't know what to do with myself for a while after that day.

Describe a memorable climbing experience:
During my 2005 trip to Font, the weather was pretty bad. Finally, we got a good day at that was cloudy and breezy. I snuck off from the group and did this problem that was kind of high, with boulders in the landing and a moist mantle at the top. It was scary, but I was really alive and cognitive of the moment and this experience really set in.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Watch old Kung-Fu movies for information concerning this delicate subject and rest when you need it. It's nice to climb with folks who push you, too, but in a positive manner.

Who or what inspires me?
—Lines—not just a bunch of holds
—Paul Houghoughi a rite nice Welshman
—Static
—Chris Sharma: I've climbed alone a lot, and I've run into Chris in a lot of places, and we always have a good time. His attitude has really enabled me to learn to get energized from without.
—Dave Graham is a technically excellent climber, with a precise style and I enjoy his bottomless conversation.
—The Sheffield crew: The Benz, Danny, Mule, James (keen youth?) and so on
—Everything and everyone inspires me, really, especially climbers who are really doing it.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
5.15/v15—it's here, whether one thinks about it or not. V12 into v12 into v11 and so on, that’s freaking hard. In 10 years, the dust will settle, grades will be proven, and maybe there will be delineation between power-endurance and hardest move.

Care to comment on chipping?
Chippers steal from stronger climbers, future climbers, nature, and themselves. There are millions of boulders in the world. Don't go sell yourself short.

Any near death experiences?
—Run-out on a mixed route
—Near hypothermic while lost on the descent
—Almost feel asleep while rapping down a big buttress in the dark
—Broke my face on my dirt bike from temple to teeth
—Three rollover auto accidents in one summer on the same curve—no shit.
—Work has led to some close calls with machinery, rocks, chains and trees
—Rock fall in the backcountry
Jeez, no wonder I boulder these days.

What are your future plans or goals?
I'm looking forward to spending more time in Europe, maybe a trip to Asia. I've got a revolving tick list all over the place, so there is always a plan.

For more info, check out Chris' website.

Neverland, Bas Cuvier, Fontainebleau—Andy Jennings PHOTO