Gear Scene About BD

Age:
Years Climbing:
Achievements:
Favorite Areas:
24
15
Hard ropeless ascents and first ascents, including 'The Thimble' in South Dakota.
Hueco Tanks, Fountainbleau, The Grampians, Eldorado Canyon, Mt. Evans and The Black Hills.
20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
Usually a small army of spotters and a mountain of foam are in the background while I climb.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
I just about broke through the sound barrier when I winged 35' off the Thimble, and the impact redefined the shape of my neck. It also redefined my concept of how vital the aspect of danger is to the sport of climbing.

Describe a memorable climbing experience:
Getting the chance to share chalk and a spot with John Gill, and to hear his take on the sport of bouldering was the most memorable climbing experience I can remember.

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Training at Paradise Rock Gym, writing music or editing new footage from last weekend.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Don’t get suckered into the idea that muscles = strength. Strength comes from the mind, and there are WAY more important things going on mentally in the sport that overshadow purely physical gains. Coordination, pain tolerance, muscle recruitment, reflexes, problem solving and technique—have more to do with a strong mind than with big muscles.

Who or what inspires you?
Fred Nicole, pulling on holds the rest of us can barely see.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
Hopefully more people will continue finding out how cool the sport is, and want to participate and get excited to go out and climb.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
I think it's the number just above 5.14, and just as meaningless.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
Climbing is such a great sport in that there's plenty of room for everybody, including those that participate in the sport differently from me.

Do you have any vices and what are they?
Tall, aesthetic problems and cold beer.

Any near death experiences?
I've only been struck by lightning once, and that wasn't too bad.

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I think the history of climbing is one of the most interesting in all of sports. I have savored the time I've gotten to spend in the company of Jim Donini, John Sherman, Sir Edmond Hillary, Chris Sharma, Fred Nicole, Steve Mammen and John Gill. Each has contributed to the story of climbing, and as a filmmaker I've found that the sport will never run short of interesting and dramatic stories.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?

I'm spending ten weeks in South Africa this summer shooting my new film 'Specimen' with a crew of great climbers. After I graduate, maybe I'll hit the road for a while!

 

 

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