20
Questions
Describe your climbing
background:
Usually a small army of spotters and a mountain
of foam are in the background while I climb.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining
moment for you?
I just about broke through the sound barrier
when I winged 35' off the Thimble, and the
impact redefined the shape of my neck. It
also redefined my concept of how vital the
aspect of danger is to the sport of climbing.
Describe a memorable climbing experience:
Getting the chance to share chalk and a spot
with John Gill, and to hear his take on the
sport of bouldering was the most memorable
climbing experience I can remember.
What are you up to when you’re
not climbing?
Training at Paradise Rock Gym, writing music
or editing new footage from last weekend.
Any training advice or suggestions?
Don’t get suckered into the idea that
muscles = strength. Strength comes from the
mind, and there are WAY more important things
going on mentally in the sport that overshadow
purely physical gains. Coordination, pain
tolerance, muscle recruitment, reflexes,
problem solving and technique—have
more to do with a strong mind than with big
muscles.
Who or what inspires you?
Fred Nicole, pulling on holds the rest of
us can barely see.
How do you see climbing evolving in the next
five years?
Hopefully more people will continue
finding out how cool the sport is, and want
to participate and get excited to go out
and climb.
What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
I think it's the number just above 5.14,
and just as meaningless.
Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than
one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear
on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds,
glue vs. no glue?
Climbing is such a great sport in that there's
plenty of room for everybody, including those
that participate in the sport differently
from me.
Do you have any vices and what are they?
Tall, aesthetic problems and cold beer.
Any near death experiences?
I've only been struck by lightning once,
and that wasn't too bad.
Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I think the history of climbing is one of
the most interesting in all of sports. I
have savored the time I've gotten to spend
in the company of Jim Donini, John Sherman,
Sir Edmond Hillary, Chris Sharma, Fred Nicole,
Steve Mammen and John Gill. Each has contributed
to the story of climbing, and as a filmmaker
I've found that the sport will never run
short of interesting and dramatic stories.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
I'm spending ten weeks in South Africa this
summer shooting my new film 'Specimen' with
a crew of great climbers. After I graduate,
maybe I'll hit the road for a while!