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Age:
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Years Climbing:
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Achievements:
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Favorite Areas:
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18
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10
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Rope
climbing:
—8c/c+ RP
—8a+/b OS
Bouldering:
—8b RP
—8a flash
Competition:
—3rd place European Bouldering Championship and Italian Bouldering Champion.
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Hueco
Tanks (USA), Bishop (USA), Buoux (FRA) and Ticino
(SUI)
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20
Questions
 Describe
your climbing background:
I began to climb at eight years old doing a basic
course for kids in my hometown of Novara. Two or
three years later I started doing the first serious
trainings with my first trainer. That year I also
tried my first youth competition. Now, with almost
ten years of climbing behind me and after having
climbed many hard rocks and won lots of competitions
I have a big opportunity ahead of me: to become a
professional climber.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for
you?
I have had two big breakthroughs in my climbing career
so far. The first one was when I got 3rd place at
the Bouldering Europeans in 2004. That was only my
second international competition, in the same category
as adults who I thought I had no chance competing
against, but something weird happened. I got 3rd
without any big ambitions. I only climbed in a natural
way and without stress!
The second one was when I got to the chains on my
first 8c at age 16. I had first tried the route in
early summer but felt it too hard for me at that
time. I have learned that climbers have to believe
and look ahead to their limits. So I began to train
hard for it but, unfortunately, during the summer
tweaked my ankle and I had to stop climbing for one
month! Then I trained very hard again and I felt
really on good form, so in September, I got back
on my project again and after a few tries I sent
it! I was super happy to get it because I trained
a lot and I gave my best in order to do my hardest
route at that time.
Who or what inspires you?
Nobody inspires me—I’m only motivated
by myself!
How do you see climbing evolving in the next five
years?
Harder routes and boulders, extreme highballs, harder
multi pitch routes and trad routes but above all
much more deep water soloing!
What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
It exists. Realization is an example… Coup
de Grace (Dave Graham’s route in Ticino) is
another one!
Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw
on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes,
chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
I’m really against all these problems. I climbed
some nice manufactured routes but I never chipped
or glued a route and I’ll never do it. But
everyone has his/her own ethic and there will always
be something considered wrong.
Do you have any vices and what are they?
Next question please!
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Climb as much as I can outside on every style of
climbing. I hope to do several 8b’s and 8b+’s
boulder problems, routes till 8c+ and 8b’s
onsight. Begin to climb more seriously on multi pitch
routes, trad routes, climb much more on classic old
school routes and improve my positions in World Cup
competitions.
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