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Age:
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Years climbing:
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Achievements:
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Favorite areas:
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19
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9
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Alpine:
—Gongnaführe (Zmuttnase)
—Montblanc-Peuterey Integral
—Bietschhorn Fünftürme-Verbindungs-Südostgrad
Big wall:
—Yosemite, Nose in 15 hours, Salàthe, Lurking Fear
Crack climbing:
—Indian Creek, The Optimator 5.13-
—Ruby’s Cafe 5.13-
Sport climbing:
—Disneyland 8b flash
Ice climbing competitions:
—1st place IWC Val di Daone 2006
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Yosemite
and Gongnaführe (Zmuttnase)
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20
Questions
Describe your climbing background:
My older brother Simon started climbing in our home
area. Luckily he needed a partner and that’s
how I came into the game. After hanging around for
quite, the passion came and I changed to the sharp
end.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for
you?
At the age of 12, I went climbing with a friend. I
was really scared of the wide distances between the
bolts and so I didn’t see the top of routes very
often. But that day it just happened, I tried a 7c
without fear but with full concentration and I flashed
the route!
Describe a memorable climbing experience when things
got out of hand:
In October, last year, I was in the Yosemite. While
climbing the Salàthe I made a mistake, which
I can still feel the scar from on my head: On the 23rd
pitch, I fell and landed headfirst on a ledge. But
due to a bit of luck, I ate pasta in Camp 4 the same
night.
What are you up to when you’re not
climbing?
Sking, telemarking, surfing and partying
Any training advice or suggestions?
Take care of your fingers – you will need them
for climbing!
How does fear affect your climbing?
Fear blocks your vision and makes me act like I’m
blindfolded so you should never let it get to this
point. A climber should never feel fear only respect.
Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw
on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes,
chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
Pre-clipping is OK when you’re climbing redpoint
and when the draw is clipped from the ground up. The
US climbers should get a lot of praise because they
climb a very clean style.
Chipping is for losers.
Gluing holds is for f**king losers.
Care to comment on: heel spurs, leashes vs. leashless,
falling on ice, impact of drytooling?
I have climbed ice and mixed routes leashless for the
past three years. Eliminating heel spurs pushes the
ice/mixed climbing into new dimensions and ice climbing
competitions would certainly be more dynamic and more
interesting.
What are your future plans or goals in
climbing? Climbing and having fun.
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