Gear Scene About BD

Age:
Years climbing:
Achievements:
Favorite areas:
29
15-20
  • Biographie, Céüse, 9a+
  • Sonic Boom, Cathedral (Utah), 5.14a on sight
  • 2nd Dresden World Cup 2006
  • 3rd Chamonix World Cup 2004 and 2005
  • 3rd Arco Rock-master 2004
  • 3rd Edinburgh World Cup 2003
  • Youth world champion 1995

Céüse, Verdon, Kalymnos, Smith Rock

 

 

20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:

I discovered climbing at 9 years old, a little bit after I joined a club.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Around 13 years old I discovered Céüse, since then I've climbed more and more…

Describe a memorable climbing experience:
I don’t remember much of the past but think of the next experience, but last week I did La Ramirole (140 m, 8b max) in the Verdon, the first pitch was soaking wet, so it was a big fight, and with the magic area, the beautiful rock, the exposure and good friends, it was a wonderful climbing day…

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Listening to music, going to the cinema, working, sleeping…

Any training advice or suggestions?
Do what motivates you, and devote yourself totally to it.

Who or what inspires you?
Yann Ghesquiers, a beautiful and impressive line on rock…

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
We’ll see…

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
Very very very hard…

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
Pre-clipping or pre-placed gear, everybody can do what he wants, but it’s not the same for chipping. I think it’s better not bolting than chipping, there are enough routes to climb for more than one lifetime and climbing is finding the solution of natural problems. I think we can possibly, if it’s necessary, glue if it’s a very important hold…

Do you have any vices and what are they?
Lazy, slow… but I try to treat myself…

Any near death experiences?
No

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
Yes, I like to read books of old climbers to know how they climbed, what kinds of gear they had, their motivation…. They discovered wild wide areas, they have invented how to climb, the gear, they took more risks than today…

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
My priority is competitions until the World Championships. After that, more crags, more trips, more multi-pitch routes, more trad, more bolting…

 

 

 

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