Draws
in a Gym March 17, 2008
As
you know, I’ve tested many fixed quickdraws
from sport routes from all over the country. I’m
even actually in the middle of a semi-controlled
Spectra vs nylon draw experiment that perhaps I’ll
finish up by spring. However, a while ago a gym
owner asked me what I thought about replacing draws
at a gym and how they compare to draws outside.
Some random thoughts:
- Draws
in a gym don’t see the weather that
an outdoor draw does, though it could get baked
in the sun if exposed through a window.
Draws in the gym probably typically see more
action than a draw fixed on an outdoor
route.
From what I’ve seen at many gyms, the draws
suffer from abrasion more than anything—usually
over very textured surfaces.
Most draws I’ve seen in a gym are nylon
and not Spectra or Dyneema.
So
when should a gym owner replace draws at a gym?
That really is a question with no definitive
answer, other than the fact that scheduled inspection
should be a regular part of any gym’s maintenance
program, and if it looks suspect then switch it
out.
A
gym owner sent me a few draws with descriptions
of their locations—and I tested them. Below
are the results:
Sample
Description
Load
#1
First
Draw on most popular route, very little exposure
to sunlight, took load on every fall from both
climber and belayer.
5636
lbf (25.1 kN)
#2
Last
draw on popular route, constant exposure to sunlight,
took many falls since climbers often didn’t
clip anchor.
5735
lbf (25.5 kN)
#3
This
draw hasn’t been replaced in probably
ten years, maybe more. Obvious signs of wear. Similar
condtions to #2.
3746
lbf (16.7 kN)
Remember
the CE requirement for slings and draws is 22
kN (4946 lbf). So two of the three remained with
passing values, while the third was at ~75% of
its rated strength. And to put it in
perspective, large-sized stoppers are rated to
10 kN, and cams to 14 kN—so even the
ten-year-old draw, though noticeably worn and
weaker than it should be, is still pretty strong
in the grand scheme of typical real-world loading.
Bottom Line
So,
like I’ve said many times before, even
worn and old slings and draws are pretty darn strong
and in most cases don’t necessarily mean
imminent death, however, it is in everyone’s
best interest to check your gear often, and replace
it if you’re sketched-out about it.
Be safe out there,
KP
