After a fourth-go ascent of Pete Whittaker’s testpiece Crown Royale (5.14c), Connor Herson set his sights on the next king line of Norway’s Profile Wall: The Recovery Drink (5.14c). Established by Nico Favresse in 2013, this 35-meter pitch is overhanging and protected entirely with gear—the perfect recipe for Connor’s skillset.

For more on Norway’s traditional approach to climbing, enjoy this thoughtful essay by legendary BD Athlete Babsi Zangerl. 

GUARDIANS OF TRADITION

By Babsi Zangerl

Traditional climbing has a deep historical background in Norway.

The lines are clean and aesthetic. Most routes don’t even have anchors at the top. It’s a really cool style. You get to climb the routes exactly the way they were done back in the day. This not only adds many demanding aspects but also helps you grow massively as a climber. You protect routes using all kinds of gear—nuts, Camalots, ball nuts, beaks—letting your creativity run free. The goal is to climb a route completely clean, placing all protection on lead while climbing, without using it as aid.

This makes climbing more versatile, mentally challenging, and teaches you how to realistically assess risk. When things get serious, it can be very difficult to push danger and fear aside and focus solely on climbing. But that’s exactly what makes our sport so diverse and exciting. If you’re comfortable with the game, familiar with all types of protection, and have already taken a few falls, it can even be much more fun than simply clipping bolts.

On top of that, routes tend to leave a much deeper memory when you’ve had to overcome not only physical difficulty but also your inner resistance. Those experiences become intense and unforgettable.

Sometimes, what’s truly inspiring is not what we achieve, but how we approach something and the style in which you do it.

I strongly believe we should protect this traditional way of climbing and give this ethic importance for the next generations of climbers. Our society constantly pushes us toward going faster, higher, harder, and better. But isn’t it just as much about experiences that allow us to grow — experiences that are more holistic and ultimately more valuable than setting a record?

Sometimes, what’s truly inspiring is not what we achieve, but how we approach something and the style in which you do it.

—Babsi Zangerl

GEAR FROM THE EPISODE

CLIMB ESSENTIALS

Gear and apparel born from the climbing life.

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