#bdemployees: Remco Graas exploring new old routes at homeWednesday, June 24, 2020
What to say; Mayerlrampe is just one of the many classic routes on the Großglockner Nordwand that every Alpinist has (or should have 😉) on their list!
On Friday the 12th in the afternoon we went straight from the office to Glockner Biwak, I was with a Czech friend who lives in Schwaz. We read that the bivy shelter could be overfull if you arrived too late so we took sleeping bags in case we had to sleep outside. Turned out we were the first ones, 5 more people came later so it got pretty cozy in the shelter but we got sweet spots and had a good sleep! After an easy wake up at 3:00am on Saturday, we had a breakfast and walked to the start of the route which is 20 minutes away from the bivy. The sunrise in the face was magnificent but more important: Great conditions!
Trittfirn, as it is called, in the first part and then a mixture of Ice and firn and a small icefall (WI3+) in the final pitch that allowed us to climb simultaneously and move fast through the Mayerlrampe. We climbed the line before we knew it!
After that the summit is only 150 vertical meters away, you can see the cross and people on the summit so you think you are there already.
But the North-West ridge was full of snow and was actually more challenging than the Mayerlrampe itself as the snow got soft and ice Tools couldn’t really hold in the soft snow. They were good to use as shovels though 😝. Sometimes it was a bit of sketchy mixed climbing but placing protection (cams / slings and sometimes we found a bolt) was well possible and at 10:30 we were at the summit.
It was definitely not my last line on the Glockner Nordwand, I hope to climb the Aschenbrenner next time but this route is only in climbable condition every few years.
Essential gear on this one, or actually on all high alpine missions:
- I’m just so psyched about the Approach Down Hoody - Men's, this thing is so light and packable and delivers great insolation given the volume and weight, great piece!
- I also abuse the FineLine Stretch Rain Shell for alpine missions, same story: It’s very light and packable for a water and winterproof jacket and works fine for the summer in high alpine terrain. Much lighter and less expensive than other Alpine waterproof shells.
- Terminator Gloves, I’ve been climbing with those for more than 10 years almost, long before I started working for BD. I think I bought a new pair every season almost. They are the best for me. The F20 model fits even better than the old ones, especially the wider wrist strap gives more comfort.
- Ice Screws (10 + 13cm (UL) on this one) and normal C4 + UL cams (Size #0.3 - #1 on this one). On what I’ve done so far in the alps all I needed where cams up to size 3.